I haven seen ani guides in the forum bout this so i tot i post my humble research here for the benefits of newbies like me... If you guyz find it useful can request to mods to make this sticky.. here goes:\
I SUPER RECOMMEND tis to sum one hu has nvr change e brake fluid for a zillion yrs.. nw my rear brake lock lik no body business.. wahaha.. gif ur brakes new life !
Personalli tested n proven, the below process works.. and i used:
Shell DOT4 Brake n Clutch Fluid $6+
0.5M of fish tank air pump pipe $0.20
empty container FOC
1. Open up the master cylinder and wrap a piece of cloth around it to absorb any spills, brake fluid are LETHALto your paintwork.
2. Find out the specs of the brake fluid required by your machine by referring to the master cylinder cap. It comes in DOT. Dot 3, 4, 5 n so on. Buy a bottle of suitable brake fluid from any motordiam u like.
3. Start by connecting a length of clear plastic hose to the caliper bleed screw. Run the other end of the hose into a clear plastic container. Pour a few ounces of fresh brake fluid into the container. This will seal the open end of the line and prevent air from siphoning back into the system.
4. Open the bleed screw and pump the brake lever. You should see old, dirty fluid and perhaps a few air bubbles flowing out of the line.
5. Pump the lever while keeping an eye on the master cylinder. Top off the master cylinder with fresh fluid whenever the level drops to the add mark. Don't forget to check your catch can occasionally. It's easy to overflow it with old fluid and create a real mess.
6. Eventually you'll see only clean fluid flowing. At that point, tighten the bleed screw, pump the lever a few times and then, while holding the lever down, open the bleed screw as you normally would when bleeding the brakes. If no air bubbles or dirty fluid drains out, you're all done. If youre working on a dual-caliper brake, repeat the process on the opposite caliper.
7. Top off the master cylinder, secure the cap and you're good to go for another year!