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Thread: 2004 Kawasaki Z750 DIY Guide

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    Default 2004 Kawasaki Z750 DIY Guide



    Starting a new thread to share the resource for fellow enthusiastic riding the same model whom is interested to DIY.

    Kawasaki Genuine Parts
    Motormatic
    33 Jalan Pendekar 2
    Taman Ungku Tun Aminah, 81300 Johor Bahru, Johor, Malaysia
    Ah Man: +6012-7171779

    Jack (Parts Seller from JB)
    kawasakispareparts@gmail.com
    whatsapp +60177999008

    Redline Products
    Kai Guan Company
    No.3 Upper Aljunied Link
    #01-03 Block B, Joo Seng Warehouse
    Singapore 367903

    Tel: +65 6382 3003
    http://www.kaiguan.com.sg/

    Engine Oil and Spark Plugs
    MXTRADINGS
    The Frontier
    Blk 50 Ubi Ave 3
    #05-13 Singapore 408866

    HP: 90262657 (Nicholas)
    http://www.mxtradings.com

    Insurance Renewal
    Anda
    18 Sin Ming Lane
    #02-10 Midview City S573960
    Tel: 65542288
    http://www.anda.com.sg/prg/intro.asp#contact

    KingTony Tools
    Boon Soon Industrial Hardware
    #01-185, 3021 Ubi Avenue 2, (S)408897
    6743 1951

    Armaflex Insulation
    NORTH EAST REFRIGERATION PARTS PTE LTD
    HEAD OFFICE
    Address : No.35 Ubi Crescent
    Singapore 408585
    Telephone: +65 6749 2832

    Radiator Servicing
    URS Radiator Service
    #01-454, 3007 Ubi Road 1, (S)408701

    Scrap Yard
    Ah Ann Trading
    74 Sungei Kadut St 1

    Bike Fabricator
    No 10 Kaki Bukit Rd 2 #03-27

    Powder Coating
    Yon Sheng Powder Coating - 6281 7962
    Blk 31 Sin Ming Dr #01-287 Singapore 575705

    Siong Kwong Metal Works - 6250 2446
    Blk 12 , Toa Payoh Industrial Park
    Lorong 8 ,#01-1191 Singapore 319064

    Ong & Ong
    David H/P: 98181913 ; Tel : 62875086
    Address : #01-464 Blk 11 Defu Lane 10
    Last edited by S750WP; 11-09-2013 at 08:36 PM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

     

     
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    Spark Plug
    NGK Standard CR9EK: $8 ea(KS Motorcyle)
    NGK Iridium CR9EIX: $11 ea (MX Tradings )

    Oil Filter
    Honda Superfour oil filter: $16 ea (Eversuccess), $15ea(FJT)

    Coolant
    Maxima Cool Aide 2L: $18.40 (Mustaffa)
    Redline water wetter : $16 per bot(MX tradings)

    Battery
    Yuasa YTX-9BS: $55 (Lim Ah Boy)

    Air Filter Kit
    K&N Air filter cleaning kit: $22(Lim Ah Boy)
    IMAG0359.jpg

    Radiator Cap
    Honda Radiator Cap 1.1bar: $15 (Planet Motor)
    bikepics-2422294-full.jpg

    Brake Pads
    Vesrah semi sintered front brake pads:$36 (Eversuccess)
    bikepics-2150906-full.jpg
    Braking sintered front brake pads: $130 (Motovation)
    20121029_144936.jpg

    Grips
    BMW Grips: $24 (Performance Motor Ltd)
    IMAG0358.jpg

    Coolant Hose
    OEM rubber hose: $142 (Motormatic @ JB Skudai)
    Silicon hose : $45 (Ebay)
    bikepics-2472856-800.jpg

    Brake Disc
    Arashi front brake disc DBS036W (L and R) : $210 inclusive of shipping (Ebay Seller Neverland)
    Last edited by S750WP; 09-09-2013 at 08:33 PM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Valve Clearance Instruction

    http://www.riderforums.com/z1k-z750-...tment-how.html

    Parts needed
    1X Head cover gasket 11061-1165
    6X Head cover bolt o-ring 92055-1352
    4X Spark plug hole gasket(the old one become hardened)
    Hotcam Valve shim kit (7.48mm)
    Last edited by S750WP; 21-07-2012 at 09:45 AM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Started to DIY the valve clearance today, as found engine oil leaking from the cam cover gasket.

    1.Remove the seat on the bike


    2.Remove the right hand side covers


    3.Disconnect the fuel pump wire and fuel level indicator wire.


    4.Disconnect the fuel tank drain tubing


    5.Disconnect the fuel line.


    6. Remove the fuel tank.
    Last edited by S750WP; 19-07-2012 at 09:54 PM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    7. Remove the raidator cap


    8. Drain off the coolant (Very good design, the plug on the engine block drain abit of coolant for the valve clearance job)


    9. Disconnect all the wire connectors, remove the coolant pipe and remove the thermostat assembly.



    10. Mark out all the coil connection and disconnect the coil connectors.
    Last edited by S750WP; 30-06-2012 at 10:35 PM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    11. Disconnect the vent tubing from the airbox


    12. Disconnect the vent tubing from the cam cover and remove all tubings


    13. The cam cover is now free from all obstruction.


    14. Remove the coil and the vent cover.


    15. Remove all the spark plugs.


    16. Remove the cam cover and cleaned off the old gasket sealant.


    17. Remove the signal generator cover.
    Last edited by S750WP; 30-06-2012 at 10:36 PM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Check the Valve clearance all within spec except Cyl 1 EX is too tight, will remove the CAM and changed the shims tomorrow.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Proceed with shim replacement on Cyl 1 Ex left hand side.

    1. Count and mark the cam chain (30 teeth.), with pain markers. IN and EX cam shaft painted should face away from each other, signal generator at T1.4 and Cyl 4 IN and EX cam lobes pointing 45 degree away from each other, later during assembly must resume back to this condition for proper timing.


    2. Take note there are 4 bolts there are chrome (longer and its placed where the dowel pins are located)



    3. Tied the cam chain to the frame to prevent it from falling into the cam chain tunnel when removing the cam shaft.


    4. Remove the cam chain tensioner, depress the stopper and push back the pusher.


    5. Remove the cam shaft cover by slowly loosening the bolts from right hand side to left hand side,then removing them completely.


    6, Once the cam shaft cover is removed, proceed to remove the cam shaft and replaced the shim under the bucket. (I replaced a 3.0mm to 2.95mm shim)

    7. Put back the cam shaft and lubricate the cam shaft and cam shaft covers with engine assembly lube (I am using redline product)



    8. I deviate from the manual to install the CCT temporarily first as the method suggest by the manual will put tension on the cam chain and the cam chain will jump out of the sprocket when I tighten the cam shaft cover causing the timing to misalign.

    9. Instead I alighned the cam shaft sprocket to the cam chain first (white paint which I marked earlier), put a big spanner resting on the chain between the cam shaft sprocket (this helps to prevent the cam chain jumping off the sprocket). Slowly tighten the cam shaft covers evenly, installed the cam chain guide. Finally installed the CCT, and turn the signal generator for 2 rounds clockwise. The CCT spring will extend out and put tension to the cam chain during the rotation.

    10. Proceed to check the timing of the cam chain and check the valve clearance again for the valve which the shim was replaced. (mine were within spec after the shim replacement). Reassemble everything, and replaced all the old gaskets.

    11. Finally check the throttle bottle sync (mine was ok, as I did it last month).

    12. Enjoy the smoother ride.
    Last edited by S750WP; 18-07-2012 at 09:16 PM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    vacuum syn procedure is here

    http://www.kawiforums.com/how-tos-fa...cuum-sync.html

    Document the procedure here for future reference, the procedure in the manual is not fully correct.

    1. Clean the bypass valve of any carbon (remove the bypass screw and spray with carb cleaner in the hole) before proceeding with the throttle bodies syn.
    2. After cleaning turned in the bypass screw all the way in for max vacuum reading (cw vacuum reading increase)
    3. Syn cyl 1 and 2 by adj the bypass screw of the cyl to match the lower reading. i.e Cyl 1: 220mm Cyl 2: 230mm, adj cyl 2 bypass screw ccw, such that cyl 2 match cyl 1 reading.
    4. Do the same for cyl 3 and 4
    5. Adj the center screw to match cyl 1&2 to cyl 3&4 i.e Cyl 1&2: 240mm, Cyl 3&4: 220mm (CW: Cyl 3&4 vacuum reading will increase)
    6.Check the idle speed is at 1100rpm and blip the throttle after each adj to verify. Syn is completed when all the cyl have the same vac reading at idle and all cyl vac reading should rise simultaneously to the same level when blip the throttle.

    Before Adjustment


    After Adjustment
    Last edited by S750WP; 30-12-2012 at 11:31 AM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    DIY Hazard light switch. Idea from here :http://www.kawiforums.com/ninja-250r...rd-lights.html


    The switch I bought from ebay

    http://stores.ebay.com/PeakMoto-Onli....c0.m322&gbr=1

    I am using the stock flasher relay and follow the wiring as follow, I will tap into the wiring harness on the LHS handle bar switch and not at the rear as the wiring will be neater this way.. Basically I need to tap into 3 wires, the left and right signal wire and the relay flasher wire and connect up to the switch.

    Left signal: Green Wire
    Right:Grey Wire
    Flasher Relay Output: Orange Wire



    Last edited by S750WP; 19-07-2012 at 09:27 PM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

     

     
  12. #12
    stoner
    is going KAWA~BANGA!!..
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    Cool..... Damn good write up!
    To Me....

    It's not How fast you go... It's how FAR you Travel...

    It's the Rider! Not the Bike!

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    Handle Bar Grips Replacement (BMW Grips)

    1. Loosen the screws (coated with thread locking compound) with a impact driver and remove the screws and balancer
    IMAG0360.jpg

    2. Remove the old grips
    IMAG0361.jpg

    3. Soak the new grips in soapy water for easy installation.

    4. New grips in, put back the balancer, apply loctite to the screws and tighten. Enjoy the new grips.
    IMAG0362.jpg
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    CSV
    has restored the IMPULSE!!!
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    haha, S750wp really is the man!

    how's the new grip feeling?
    February 2011 - March 2012 = Phantom TA 200
    March 2012 - August 2013 = Suzuki Impulse 400
    Present = BMW (Bus, MRT, Walk)



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    Quote Originally Posted by CSV View Post
    haha, S750wp really is the man!

    how's the new grip feeling?
    The design of the grips fit the palm nicely and eliminate numbness on the hand, worth the $$.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    avantgarde120
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    Interesting and very informative even though i ride an FZ1S,some of the ideas might be put to good use.
    Thanks a bunch!

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    S750WP
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    Quote Originally Posted by avantgarde120 View Post
    Interesting and very informative even though i ride an FZ1S,some of the ideas might be put to good use.
    Thanks a bunch!
    Glad to know its useful.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    DIY to install ARKON SM032 GPS mount

    I bought the Arkon SM032 from Ebay.
    Arkon website http://www.arkon.com/gps.php

    Its not possible to mount Arkon GPS mount on Z750 handle because of the tight clearance when the handle bar is swing to either end, the GPS holder will hit the fuel tank. I tried to mount on the brake reservoir cap with a bracket but there is risk of brake fluid spurting out and ruin the bike paintwork because the brake reservoir cap will not be fully tighten. So I mount it to my mirror stem.

    1. Buy some adhesive thick foam and wrap it around the mirror stem.
    IMAG0455.jpg
    2. Install the GPS ball mount bracket around the foam and tighten, very sturdy.
    IMAG0454.jpg
    3. Mount the GPS
    IMAG0456.jpg
    Last edited by S750WP; 31-07-2012 at 08:03 PM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    avantgarde120
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    Nice work!

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    DIY to replace the coolant hose and spark plug today.

    The Z750 spark plugs at the middle is difficult to remove, the wiring has to be disconnected and the thermostat assembly removed to access to the spark plug. Its a good opprotunity to replace the spark plugs at the same time when replacing the coolant hose, I decided to replace all the coolant hose as one of them has a crack which resulted in leak due to old age, almost got stranded in Malacca as a result, and black tape was used to wrap around the crack hose to continue to ride back to Singapore.

    The procedure as follow.

    1. Remove the fuel tank.

    2. Remove the coolant drain bolt located at the left hand side near to the front sprocket and open up the raidator cap to drain all the coolant. Flush with distilled water until the water comes out clear.


    3. Remove all the old coolant hose and use a fine sand paper to sand the rusty pipe so the new hose will sit firmly and coolant will not leak.


    4. Removed the old spark plugs and fit in new spark plugs when hose and the thermostat assembly is removed


    5. Fit in the new coolant hose and clean the reservoir tank and reassemble everything back.


    6. Filled with new coolant and rev the bike and filled the coolant to the brim. Top up the reservoir tank until it reached the full mark.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    DIY for Front brake pad renewal and bleeding the brakes.

    My brake pads are worn to the limit after about 25000km and its causing marks on my newly install Arashi brake disc.

    1. Remove the 2 bolts holding the calipers on the fork legs. Cover the fuel tank with rags to prevent brake fluid from splashing.



    2. Diassemble the old brake pads from the caliper and clean the brake piston, I use wire bush and water.




    3. Clean the pins with wire brush and lubricate.


    4. Used a G clamp to push back the pistons and installed the new brake pads




    5. Mount the caliper backs and press the brake lever gently to extend the brake piston evenly.

    Bleed the brakes

    1. Fit a 10mm hex wrench aorund the bleed nipple and connect a tubing to the bleed nipple. The end of the tubing insert to a empty bottle to catch the old brake fluid


    2. Remove the brake reservoir cover screws

    3. Pump the brake lever for 5-6 times and hold the brake lever firmly, do not let go. Loosen the brake nipples by turning counter clockwise, the brake lever will now able to travel further until it fully compress (hold and do not let go), you will see old brake fluid bleed from the nipple through the tubing to the empty bottle.

    9. Tighten the brake nipple and slowly released the brake lever.

    10. Repeat step 7 and 8 process until the brake reservoir is almost low but not empty, top up with fresh brake fluid until all the old brake fluid is flushed out and new brake fluid start to flow out from the tubing.

    11. Reassemble everthing and clean off any brake fluid residue as brake fluid will eat and damage the paintwork.
    Last edited by S750WP; 10-11-2012 at 12:23 AM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

     

     
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    My front brake pulsate badly during hard braking, this happened with the combination of Arashi brake rotors and the new sintered Braking Pads, was running fine with the badly worn Vesrah semi metal brake pads.

    The problem was due to the burs on the edges (feel very sharp) on the Arashi brake rotors, the new pads has full contact with the brake disc while the old Vesrah has worn out with only minimal contact with the burs. When I jack the front wheel and spin it I could hear slight gazing sound from the rotors and the brake pads.

    I used grade 1500 fine sand paper to dry sand the edges and the cut out on the rotor until they feel smooth to the touch. The 1500 grade sand paper did not cause any scratch mark on the disc rotor. I also sand the brake pads to smoothed the surface, the gazing sound was gone after all the sharp edges are smoothen out. I also take the opprotunity to polished the caliper pins where they go through and the brake pads guiding hole. I needed copper grease to lube the pin so the pads can glide smoothly on the pins.

    Washed and clean away the brake dust and tested the front brake under hard braking and now the pulsating is gone.

    For bike with dual front brake caliper, I have read from Galfer installation guide the wave pattern should be offset (peaks should match with the valleys) else there will vibration. As such the Arashi wavy rotors was installed offset on my bike.

    Last edited by S750WP; 10-11-2012 at 09:43 AM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Update on the Arashi brake disc

    The brake disc still pulsate slightly, remove the bolts on one of the disc and further offset the peaks and valleys of the brake disc, secure the bolts with new loctite. Ride for a day the pulsate was totally gone, the Arashi brake disc feel as good as OEM and it stopped and holds firmly at hard braking, I am totally impressed with the quality of the Arashi brake disc, its very good value for money.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    DIY to replace the throttle and clutch cables as they are very old. Took the chance to clean the throttle body since I have to take it out to replace the throttle cables.

    1. Remove the brake lever and split the right hand side switch to half by removing the 2 screws.



    2. Unhook the cables from the throttle grip


    3. Remove the 2 screws on the LHS switch and split open the casing to disengage the choke cable


    4. Remove seats, fuel tank, all side panels, loosen all 8 screws clamping on the throttle body, and remove the injectors main connector and tubing connecting to the throttle body.

    5. Remove the bolt on each side of the airbox, then pull back the airbox


    6. Pull back the throttle body and slowly wiggle it to the LHS and out of the bike.

    7. Clean the throttle body with carb cleaner, concentrate to spray on all orifice and brush the carbon off with fine brush.


    8. After cleaning, remove the old throttle cables and replace with new one. (Oil the new cable and grease both end)



    9. Reinstall everything back together and adjust the free play on the throttle cables according to manual.

    10. Next to replace the clutch cable, remove the clutch lever nut and the screws and remove the clutch lever


    11. Route the new cable following the old cable path, loosen the lock nuts on the old cable and unhook the cable from the clutch pulley


    12. Hook up the new cable, reinstall the clutch lever and adjust the free play according to manual. (Oil the new cable and grease both end)

    Reassemble fuel tank and the side panels and enjoy the smoothness of the new cable.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    DIY to change the engine oil, its very straight forward with some basic tool.

    1. Standby all the basic tools and warm up the engine for 5-10mins to heat up the oil so it can flow smoothly out.



    2. Remove the oil drain plug with a 17mm socket to drain out the old engine oil





    3. Remove the oil filter to drain out the oil (the oil filter can last for 12000KM). I changed it every alternate oil replacement at 5000km/6month.





    4. Let the old engine oil drain for 10-15mins. then reinstall the drain bolt and oil filter.

    5. Open the engine oil cap and use a funnel to pour in the new engine oil. The Z750 requires 3.2L of engine oil (removal of oil filter)



    6. Check the engine oil level at the side viewing window, top up if necessary.

    7. Cleaned up any oil and check for any leaks.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Bike is running quite rough and fuel consumption increase lately

    Check the vacuum synchronization today.

    Before adjustment


    After adjustment


    The bike now runs smoothly after the adjustment.

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    DIY to convert the Scottoiler from single to dual lubricator to lube both side of the O-ring chain.

    Parts required.
    1. 4mm Y union push type fitting x 1
    2. 4mm OD and 2.5mm ID PU tubing x 1 metre
    3. 3mm straight fitting x 1
    4. A strap of flexible metal strip
    5. Bolt, nut, washers.
    6. 2 cotton swaps, trim off the cotton bud on each end.
    7. Cable ties and foam type double sided tape

    Procedure

    To join the 4mm tubing with a 3mm straight connector to the scottoiler tubing
    1. Remove the single lubricator
    2. Gently heat the scottoiler tubing and insert the 3mm straight connectors.
    3. Gently heat the 4mm tubing and insert to the 3mm straight connectors

    To fabricate the dual lubricator
    1. Cut 2 equal length of 4mm tubing and insert to the Y union connector
    2. Insert the 2 equal length cotton swap into the 4mm tubing in step 1, as the lubricator
    3. Use the bolt, washers and nut to secure the Y union connector to the flexible metal strip

    Priming
    1. Connect the 4mm tubing earlier (extension of the scottoiler tubing) to the Y union connector
    2. Importantly, let the Y union connector hanging so that air within the Y union is completely expel out else oil will not flow.
    3. Follow scottoiler instruction to prime the new tubing.
    4. Prime till all the air is expel out at both end of the lubricator and oil is flowing out from both lubricator for 20-30sec

    Installation
    1. Mount the flexible metal strip to the swing arm, with cable tie and protect your bike against scratches by the metal strip with foam type double sided tape.
    2. Position the 2 lubricator such that each lubricator is touching each side of the sprocket. (sprocket is sandwiched between the lubricators)







    Last edited by S750WP; 07-06-2013 at 09:05 AM.

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    wah, very well done. You're almost a mechanic yourself liao.

    basic servicing and valve clearance you also can do. i guess what's left is overhauling engine.
    February 2011 - March 2012 = Phantom TA 200
    March 2012 - August 2013 = Suzuki Impulse 400
    Present = BMW (Bus, MRT, Walk)



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    Quote Originally Posted by CSV View Post
    wah, very well done. You're almost a mechanic yourself liao.

    basic servicing and valve clearance you also can do. i guess what's left is overhauling engine.
    I learn by watching how mechanic service and repair bikes, reading workshop manual and previous work experience as technician help give me confidence to start DIY my own motorbike. Most importantly must not be afraid of failure, and by nature I'm very curious or itchy hand. If I have the correct tools I may overhaul the engine, but so far never have any issue with 4 stroke in-line 4 engine before, these machines are so reliable if you maintain it properly.

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    i only good with basic stuff.

    change eo, air filter that kind. and cosmetic stuff like changing meter and bulbs.

    dare not undertake engine fixing cause no skill. and had bad experience before when i helped my brother changed camchain, engine timing went out of sync.

    my next skill i hope to learn is cleaning brake piston and adjusting chain.
    February 2011 - March 2012 = Phantom TA 200
    March 2012 - August 2013 = Suzuki Impulse 400
    Present = BMW (Bus, MRT, Walk)



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    Quote Originally Posted by CSV View Post
    my next skill i hope to learn is cleaning brake piston and adjusting chain.
    Only some basic tools require not very difficult, if you need help I can guide you.

     

     
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    Going to replace my almost 2 year old digital voltmeter with a waterproof one from ebay, the previous one also bought from ebay was non waterproof and I use silicone to seal the electronic circuit. Lately it will not power up but then back to normal again after quite a while, the wiring looks ok, suspect moisture cause the voltmeter circuit to malfunction and after its dried it will be ok.

    The digital voltmeter is useful for monitoring the motorcycle charging system, you will be able to know if anythings goes wrong and rectify immediately.

    The waterproof digital voltmeter cause less than $6 its cheaper than the non waterproof one which I bought 2 years ago for $10.





    For wiring its quite simple.
    1. Off the bike.
    2. Open up the fuse box, look for the ignition fuse (usually there is writing on the fuse box)
    3. Remove the fuse and place the voltmeter red wire (positive) into the hole where the fuse sits in
    4. Put back the ignition fuse, hence the voltmeter red wire is connected and received power when the bike is switch on. (do not turn on the bike yet)
    5. Next connect the voltmeter black wire(negative) to the ground, I connect it to the negative battery terminal of my bike.
    6. Start the bike, the voltmeter will power up and shows the volts reading of your bike.
    Last edited by S750WP; 09-06-2013 at 05:23 AM.

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    Installed the waterproof handle bar mount 12V cigarette socket charger for charging portable devices i.e GPS, I chose the handle bar mount as there is no other place for mounting. I bought these from Ebay but realized one of the advertiser here is also selling at almost the same price.

    .

    For wiring.
    1. Off the bike.
    2. Open up the fuse box, look for the head light fuse (usually there is writing on the fuse box), the headlight turns on when bike starts.
    3. Remove the fuse and place the charger red wire (positive) into the hole where the fuse sits in
    4. Put back the fuse, hence the charger red wire is connected and received power when the bike is switch on. (do not turn on the bike yet)
    5. Next connect the charger black wire(negative) to the ground, I connect it to the negative battery terminal of my bike.
    6. Start the bike, the charger will be activated to charge the portable device.

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    fuse had 2 terminals, your red wire should connect to the negative terminal of the fuse
    Recommended "Must Read" Post:

    How to "Live" with a Motorcycle in Singapore, a very detailed guide
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/325894-lt-Info-gt-Silverwing-400cc-600cc-Tech-Corner

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    Upgraded to ram mount with medium size aquabox, it cost 3 times more than the Arkon, but its very sturdy, my GPS sits firmly within. Only disadvantage the aquabox is very bulky, almost 3 times the szie of the Arkon.

    Last edited by S750WP; 11-06-2013 at 10:24 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by yatan73-regok View Post
    fuse had 2 terminals, your red wire should connect to the negative terminal of the fuse
    Fuse has no negative terminals, any direction you put in the fuse it will still works because the circuit is in series.



    I am just tapping the +12V from the fuse to my device.
    Last edited by S750WP; 09-06-2013 at 08:18 AM.

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    I could hear a faint engine knocking sound during idling, its located underneath the fuel tank. The engine still run smoothly but the FC drops from 280km to 250km before reserve. Finally located the problem due to a crack rubber hose connected at the air valve switch, the engine is sucking in unfiltered air.

    bikepics-2422306-full.jpg

    The knocking sound was gone after the hose was fixed.

    Perform throttle body syn and adjusted the bypass screw setting to 2 turns out as per bike manual
    Last edited by S750WP; 05-10-2013 at 09:44 AM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    A great article for suspension setting.

    http://www.gostar-racing.com/informa...ion_set-up.htm

    My oem rear shock (ZX10R 2004/5) works best according to manufacturer setting.

    Rebound 1 and 3/4 turns out
    Compression 3 turns out
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Bought a used Power Commander III USB from ebay for USD215. The installation was very straight forward no cutting of any wire is required and the plug fit exactly to the kawasaki OEM plug.



    The main unit is situated under the passenger seat with Velcro supplied by manufacturer, then route the cable to the throttle body

    1. Connect the grounding to the negative side of the battery.
    2. Unplug the throttle body fuel injector main connector and plug in the PCIII connector



    Then download the PCIII maps from dynojet website and upload the map to the PCIII using usb wire connected to a PC.



    My 2004 Kawasaki Z750 is the European model, the file I am using is M214-507
    Last edited by S750WP; 09-09-2013 at 08:18 PM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Pictures of the new waterproof digital volt meter and Garmin Oregon 450 waterproof GPS

    Install a RAM mount 1 inch ball at the handle bar clamp at the top left hand corner using 8mm bolt, keep the bike neat and tidy.


    12V blue LED digital voltmeter and the Oregon 450 powered up when the ignition is turned on
    Last edited by S750WP; 03-09-2013 at 12:55 AM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Bought some small parts from ebay to replace the worn out parts

    City Lights (Z750 European models only)
    Philips Blue Vision Sidelights W5W
    !CFZi3Qw!mk~$(KGrHqZ,!gwE06JERsKkBNU-qeVYE!~~_12.JPG

    Well nuts (for holding down the side fairing panel, 1 ea per side)
    Fasteners M6 rubber well for replacing the worn pieces.
    $(KGrHqZHJCYE9sgYCL1LBPmpRTfEjg~~60_12.JPG

    Fairing Clips


    Silicone Hose
    4mm ID (throttle body vacuum hose) and 10mm ID( engine breather hose)
    $(KGrHqN,!hkFBJCMKzrwBQhb2LIl)g~~60_57.jpg
    Last edited by S750WP; 09-09-2013 at 08:47 PM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

     

     
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    Some update on the PCIII, after installation and uploading the map from Power Commander Website, the bike bogs down at 1500rpm. I checked the fuel map it was set very rich at the 1500-2000rpm. I do a comparison with a Z1000 (muzzy exhaust) PC map and I could see a spike for the Z750 PC map fuel setting at low rpm.



    I lean down the low rpm fuel delivery using the button on the PCIII face plate, it fixed the problem, it pull strongly now and I notice the bike temp does not shoot up so fast compare to before and engine is very smooth.

    Now monitoring the FC (drops significantly after installing PC3), hopes it gets better after leaning down the fuel delivery for the low rpm, as mostly cruising at 4500-5000rpm range.
    Last edited by S750WP; 22-09-2013 at 12:30 PM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Fuel mileage of my bike had drop to 14km/L from 19km/L after installing the PC3. Read from the PC3 there is a add on function called accelerator pump, I have read mixed review on these function, mostly feedback no effect and bad gas mileage.

    http://www.powercommander.com/downlo...eratorPump.pdf

    After I disable the accel pump function, and reload the same map again, the bog down at 1500rpm was gone I do not need to lean down the fuel delivery in the low rpm range anymore

    I compare the other maps from Power Commander website.

    214-507, (2004-2005 Europe model) is rich
    214-001, (2005 Z750) is leaner compare to 214-507
    214-501, (2004 Z750 Germany model) is leaner compare to 214-001

    I upload the 214-501 map to my PC3, will monitor the fuel consumption again
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Fuel Map comparison

    214-501 (fuel delivery increase 15-30% in the mid range)


    214-507 (fuel delivery increase 30-50% in the mid range)


    The 214-507 fuel delivery surge from 1500rpm onwards.


    Will visit shop to run dyno after I get a slip on pipe.
    Last edited by S750WP; 05-10-2013 at 09:41 AM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Bought a set of lowering kit from CJ accessories, approx $55 inclusive of shipping to Singapore.



    The previous owner installed a ZX10R rear shock and it raise the height of the bike slightly, I am 175cm and my feet is unable to rest flat on the ground. Its very difficult for me to use my feet to push the bike during stationary.

    CJ informed me the distance measure from center of the hole to the next hole is 185mm which is 5mm greater than stock. This will lower my bike by 20mm. They have other kit to lower to 45mm as well.

    I will post up the procedure to replace the link soon.
    Last edited by S750WP; 09-11-2013 at 12:22 PM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    While troubleshooting the poor gas mileage issue, I read from the service manual that the ECU grounding is very important.

    Firstly

    The new Slim IU which I installed not too long ago will cause a spark on the negative terminals on the battery, and the throttle body secondary valve will activate for abt 2secs when the ground wire touch the battery negative terminal. I disconnect the IU white wire and connect it to the tail light fuse instead. Now there is no more spark when I touch the ground wire at the negative terminals.

    Secondly

    While checking the grounding I found the ECU tray flooded with water caused by dirt clogging the drain hole, which could damage the ECU if its soak in water. After cleaned off the dirt by pulling through with cable tie, water is able to drain out very fast. I then unplug the ECU connectors and check, luckily no signs of water as there are seal on the connectors to prevent water seeping in (very clever design by Kawasaki Engineers). I spray contact cleaner to clean up the ECU connectors and reinstall everything back.

    Update 18 Nov,

    The FC increase tremendously, 200km it will hit the reserve, after installing the PC 3 with map from Power Commander website. This has pose an issue when riding up north to Hatyai last week, the fuel tank is almost empty before reaching the next gas station about 200km away. After removed the PC3 the FC revert back to normal, 280-290km before reserve. Conclusion the map from Power Commander is far too rich and it needs custom map from dyno run result to optimize the a/f setting for my bike.
    Last edited by S750WP; 18-11-2013 at 08:36 PM.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

  47. #47
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    Went to Motormatic to replace the fork oil seal which is leaking last Saturday, at the same time install the lowering kit from CJ accessories, the hole to hole distance of the dog bone is 190mm, its 5mm more than the original installed. The bike lower by approx 1 inch, now both my feet is able to rest flat on the ground, using my leg to reverse my bike is a breeze now. Motormatic mechanic informed my front brake pads are gone during the fork removal, the brake pad is worn beyond the serviceable limit, approx 0.5 mm left before the copper backing plate.

    The BRAKING sintered brake pads that I was using was change last year Oct, went to Thailand thrice with these, and it offer good braking power. Once during emergency brake, it stop my bike almost instantly and I was almost doing a stoppie when my rear tires lifted off the ground slightly. The only drawback is there is alot of brake dust, cost the same as EBC HH and it wear out quite fast.

    I decide to try the GoldFren S33 sintered metal brake pads, after reading good review on it (similar braking efficiency as the EBC HH). Cost $28 per pair from FJT (half the price of EBC HH) and there is a SS metal backing plate at the back to isolate the heat from the brake pads to the brake piston.
    http://motorcyclesafetynews.com/?p=1994

    From GoldFren USA Website

    The S33 (offroad) sintered compound is optimal for ambitious first-class pro level off-road riders who demand the ultimate edge on their racing with absolute great stopping power and exceptional brake pad longevity.
    The S33 (offroad) series is currently used in motocross world championship races.
    The S33 (offroad) series is designed for low abrasive interaction the rotor while providing high braking power, long life and self-cleaning capabilities necessary for off-road riding conditions. Additionally, the S33 rear pads feature a stainless-steel heat shield for thermal isolation.
    The S33 (offroad) compound contains all-metal friction materials and finer metal friction admixtures evenly distributed in the base structure designed to achieve the greatest friction properties possible under heavy conditions.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

  48. #48
    altya
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    Wonder if u help people do carb balancing or valve clearance? haha..

    Where u get e fairing clips btw?

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    Quote Originally Posted by altya View Post
    Wonder if u help people do carb balancing or valve clearance? haha..

    Where u get e fairing clips btw?
    Yes I am helping people to service bike for a fee, PM me your bike model and year if you keen.

    The fairing clips I bought it from Ebay, I still have a bunch which I could sell you if needed.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Quote Originally Posted by S750WP View Post
    Went to Motormatic to replace the fork oil seal which is leaking last Saturday, at the same time install the lowering kit from CJ accessories, the hole to hole distance of the dog bone is 190mm, its 5mm more than the original installed. The bike lower by approx 1 inch, now both my feet is able to rest flat on the ground, using my leg to reverse my bike is a breeze now. Motormatic mechanic informed my front brake pads are gone during the fork removal, the brake pad is worn beyond the serviceable limit, approx 0.5 mm left before the copper backing plate.

    The BRAKING sintered brake pads that I was using was change last year Oct, went to Thailand thrice with these, and it offer good braking power. Once during emergency brake, it stop my bike almost instantly and I was almost doing a stoppie when my rear tires lifted off the ground slightly. The only drawback is there is alot of brake dust, cost the same as EBC HH and it wear out quite fast.

    I decide to try the GoldFren S33 sintered metal brake pads, after reading good review on it (similar braking efficiency as the EBC HH). Cost $28 per pair from FJT (half the price of EBC HH) and there is a SS metal backing plate at the back to isolate the heat from the brake pads to the brake piston.
    http://motorcyclesafetynews.com/?p=1994

    From GoldFren USA Website

    The S33 (offroad) sintered compound is optimal for ambitious first-class pro level off-road riders who demand the ultimate edge on their racing with absolute great stopping power and exceptional brake pad longevity.
    The S33 (offroad) series is currently used in motocross world championship races.
    The S33 (offroad) series is designed for low abrasive interaction the rotor while providing high braking power, long life and self-cleaning capabilities necessary for off-road riding conditions. Additionally, the S33 rear pads feature a stainless-steel heat shield for thermal isolation.
    The S33 (offroad) compound contains all-metal friction materials and finer metal friction admixtures evenly distributed in the base structure designed to achieve the greatest friction properties possible under heavy conditions.
    Update on the Goldfren S33 brake pads

    1. There is very little brake dust compare to the BRAKING and Vesrah brake pads, I think its going to last longer (BRAKING and Vesrah wear to the limit in less than a year)
    2. The uneven wear on the brake disc is smooth out after using for 3 months
    3. Good braking power for street use (dry and wet) but not as strong at the BRAKING brake pads
    4. The grip is progressive and not brake abruptly

    The Goldfren S33 is value for money, I will stick to these pads for my next brake pad replacement.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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