Hi to all new KR riders, firstly congrats on getting a KR150.
MUST READ AT LEAST THE INTRO NO MATTER NEWBIE OR OLD BIRDS.. (IF YOU INTEND TO COMMENT)
These are some information that i'll be sharing with you guys. If you have any more enquires, feel free to post it up, I'll try my very best to reply in the soonest moments. If anyone not riding KR wish to comment, sure. your comment is most welcome and I'll try my very best to reply you within my knowledge. Not everyone is as knowledge as you.
Everyone is constantly upgrading their knowledge and i'm here to share only, any information might be wrong and use my knowledge as a guide ONLY.
Any wrong information, feel free to pm me direct instead. Of cause, with the accurate information on hand and post me a link so that I could learn from my mistake as well.
Thanks in advance for those are going to pm me. thanks..
Basic servicing - Mostly consist of EO (engine oil) and Spark plug, some would include change coolant as well. Which EO and which Spark Plug, most people who go for fully EO and normal spark plug. How long once? some people go for every month and some go for every 6~1 year. Depending on your $$$ and how hard you whack your bike.. FOR myself,every 2 months, just EO and spark plug.
-Updated - Every month (so that I can ensure engine is great condition.. )
Full servicing - consist of everything above and wash carb/block/piston/piston ring/valve. If how long again, depends on when you have the $$$ den… I've seen people full servicing once every 2 years? FOR myself.. every 6~9months.
updated - For myself - every 2 years as well (Engine is new thus going into 2 year cycle as well)
Overhaul - consist of EVERYTHING above in Full servicing and wash/check all your gears wear and tear, change your piston/piston ring/clutch plates/conrod/conrod bearings. How long once? Don't ever do it unless some major stuff came up.
FOR me.. 3rd year with my bike thus need to do as conrod started to give way..
-Update - I've overhaul 2011 Aug and due this date, my engine is sound great!
Sound sensitive? Any weird sounds? Get your bf/gf/buddy to stand next to you when you create the sound and check where it's coming from. get some lube on it, if it doesn't help, try to check anything loose, tighten it if you found anything loose. if wiring loose, use cable ties. if all else failed, go to bike shop and change SOME stuff internally, they should NORMALLY know.. but of cuz.. trial and error comes into place..
What is choke?
Choke is a feature on our carb that give your bike more air and petrol to start your bike easier. Of cuz, if your bike is running normally, you on your choke, it will die off immediately because more petrol and more air means overflow.
Human example, you are currently drinking water NORMALLY.. I pour another glass of water on top of your normal water.. will you be choke and maybe water flow thru your nose in also.. It's a example..
too hot? temp shoots up even you are traveling min of 80km/h at night (NOT AT KPE) the most reasonable reasons would be "overload" if you are more den 100kg totally up. Btw, KR normally have no box, so added the box on top of your weight.
second reason: coolant leak off somewhere and is gone as your bike moves.
third reason: coolant pump / engine gasket / radiator got problem. (the most expensive)
Fuel tap - face up is reserve (remaining 1.5L) / face down is on (10L) centre (off)
2T- any full/semi will do, try not to buy those $5~$8 one as my friend tried it once and his piston jam while he's riding at 120…
Where to pour 2T and coolant? open up both your seats, the "cleaner" cap with transparent casing is for coolant and NORMALLY it's green in colour. For 2T is nearer to your battery and it's more dirty with a wiring around there.
What's 2T and Engine oil, they look the same? Why cannot mix? 2T is more detail and more "pure/thin" and it's for lubing your piston. Engine oil aka 4T aka EO is for lubing your gears and they can't mix because gear is more rough.. you can be the first one to put in 4T into 2T and please please.. tell us the results.. but.. most likely.. your piston and block will be gone if you are lucky... If you are unlucky, most likely your gear box might be gone as well.. So conclusion.. don't try..
Premix bike power? How much to 1 Litre of petrol?
1Litre petrol is 20ml of 2T
updated on this thread
Personally, I felt that if required to premix, it's abit troublesome.. There's something for you to use but you dun use it.. thus abit pointless.. If you wan to learn to premix.. might as well learn how to adjust your 2T intake? (learn from bike shop)
How to check Mileage (FC) Fuel consumption?
You have 2 range of numbers on your speedo.
top (cannot be adjust) (total mileage of your bike, might have turn a few rounds, you can't find out)
bottom (can be reset with the knob on the left) just turn and if it doesn't move,please turn another side..
Check FC, (example)
1st time, please reset to 000.0 after you pump full petrol.
2 days later, your number might be around 128.6 than we pump petrol. Look at the litres that you have pump, example. 5.341L to filled up.
we use 128.6/5.34=24.08km/L (your FC)
Remember to reset to 0000.0 everytime you pump your petrol so that you can know when you need to pump your petrol also.. and check your FC estimated 2~3 times before you know the exact ones..
Based on the above calculation, that means your bike can run until estimated 240km before hitting reserve and extra 1.5L (36km/reserve). So you know when you need to pump petrol... got it?
FC ranges around 20km/l depends on how you ride, you wack or no wack and etc.
of cuz.. carb and sprocket all makes a diff..
Airbox for wat? to trap dirts and prevent them from going into your carb.. dirty carb can raise your FC.. and eat more petrol.. of cuz.. lesser air means slower... lolx..
More details at the end.. from sparks1.. more easy to see from his also...
Any other stuff? post it and I'll answer and add into my list.
KR repair technical terms and etc. (don't continue if you don't have a KR to refer to)
Most important thing to start your bike.
- Kick start - Kick starter - If broken, please change it, if rusty, lube it and clean off the rust. Rusty will prone to broke it faster.
-I gnition - Electric flows thru your entire bike thus allowing lights to be possible and ready for you to kick and thus power go thru ignition coil and cost your spark plug to "fire"
- Carb - overflow / not enough fuel will cost you to start your bike harder or even not able to start - check with shop as this is not "adjustable" via normal terms.
- Spark plug - overflow carb or under-flow fuel will cost your spark plug to spoilt even faster thus costing you not able to start your bike.
Lastly, off all your lightning if you wan a "easier" start up. Warm up your bike around 2~5min if you can spare that few min.
- need not explain much? the words mentioned it.. it's a air filter for your bike.. filtering all your air before it proceed into your carb.. "most of the KR" has remove that.
- It's located inside your airbox if you still can find. (cuz mostly remove it)
- It's for the adjustable combustion of your air/fuel before you ride off~
- able to adjust air intake / idling
- Gear box is located inside your engine casing on your right when you sit on your bike. It's filled with EO aka Engine oil to lube everything in here.
- clutch system and clutch plates are all in here.
- anything spoilt here.. it's one of the most ex stuff..
- Left signal/right signal/fuel button/high/low beam/passing light/horn.
- left/right signal suddenly go siao, check all your bulbs still working/spray some WD40 into your switch.
- low beam suddenly doesn't work but high beam works - change your headlight, low beam light has burst off.
- passing light only cut off your light, no high beam, your circuit board on your switch might have been rusty, that's wat happen to mine.
(Edited, I've removed the entire thing and resolved this issue, it will on BOTH low and high beam when you tap on it)
- horn become soft or no horn, no horn but bike able to start.. change your horn, horn is soft and when you press your horn, all lightning dim as the horn go softer, please check your battery voltage.
- No lights inside? Have you kick start your bike? If after you have start your bike and still no light, bulbs in the speedo might have burst or wiring have go crazy. Change your bulbs and try again.
- Bike move but Speedo doesn't move, speedo cable might have snap or the rotator (a black thing on your front wheel) might have spoilt. Your mileage will not work as well because they are link.
- RPM doesn't move when you rev, RPM cable snap, change it at your nearest work shop.
- Fuel doesn't move when you press the fuel button. Either the bike shop did not connect back the wiring (least likely) Wiring broken or internal spoilt (50/50) Fuel button spoilt (most likely)
- Temp doesn't move at all!! Or Temp reached at least half most of the time!! Doesn't move means button spoilt (most likely) Temp checks your block and radiator's heat it's the wiring on your radiator. (a small socket that's plug on your radiator) As for temp reached too high, might be no more coolant.
- Our speedo doesn't match the exact speed, our 10 is accurately 15.. our break even is around 55, once you hit 80 on our speedo, it's around 70+/-2. Some forumers even have 80 on his speedo and when match with my speed, it's only 50 on my speedo!!! Speed really varies, sometimes when I reached 120, it's only 105 on a car speedo.
- Brake doesn't work - Check your brake fluid.
- Brake doesn't eat.. Can't E-brake - check your brake pads and your disc to see if it's covered with rust anot. (disc might be eaten too much as well)
- The level can go down but cannot come up- check your "spring" if your spring is rusty, spray with WD40 and see if it works, if can't please find another good spring and replace it.
- Brake lights not working but when i press brake there's light. when i on the lights there's no light. Please replace the light bulb as the bulb have 2 wiring, one have gone liaoz.
- Use the normal green coolant will do, do not mix no matter what due to different substance in the coolant.
- Use better coolant only if you preferred, but bear in mind, better = more expensive and more "water" in it.
- Car/bike coolant is the same but remember to check the wordings. (need to premix? Don't buy!) Cuz you mix wrongly = super overheat.
- Clutch cable snap, what can I do to go home? 1 - tow 2-push. Can start but once you engage to gear 2 FORCEFULLY you can't go anything highly as your gears might be damaged.
- How do I know my clutch plates need to be change? When you can't engage free gear after stopping despite your bitting point is far.
- What's bitting point? You should learn it at CDC else you can't ride and you will not be seeing this note. To adjust it, on your left hand, unlock both screws, tighten them to set your bitting point higher. (higher bitting point = less stress on your engine and know your clutch plates still doing alright, lower bitting point = racer = reverse the terms i stated above.)
- total of gear 1~6 1=0~20 , 2=20~40, 3=40~60 4=60~80 5=80~100, 6(TOP)=100++ (All these is riding at normal situations.) Any abnormal situations, please ride till RPM 9, all bikes has diff speed/speedo.
- Gears is lube by Engine oil ONLY (4T) There's a EO indicator on the right side of your KR. Please check it occasionally and if it becomes milk shake or any colour that you don't recognize, please check it at the bike shop nearest to you. *it's located directly under your kick start, there's a "window" for you to see thru.
Chain / Sprocket
- Chain loose? as long you keep on hearing sounds coming from your chain there, It has a huge possibilities that it's chain loose, If too tight, there will not be any sounds, check with bike shops to see if it's ok anot.. 1 chain at least min 1 year - O Ring can last, normal chain only 3months~9 months depends on the weight/speed.
- Sprocket comes with chain normally.. only the numbers makes the differences.
14/41 -pure pick up.. expressway you will rev like no one business.. (because speed too slow)
15/39 Normal riding
16/38- top end, most of the pick up you will see people riding pass you fast…
The rest of the mix and match is up to each of us.. <<--- the sprocket that i mentioned here is only usable for chain 428...
- wheel bearing - last a min of 6months to 1 year before you feel that your wheels not straight.
- swing arm bearings - last a min of 1 year - (unknown) it's for the swing arm to the back wheel "balancing"
- Cone bearings aka fork bearings - last a min of 2 years unless you often "wack" your handlebar and hard core turning..
Ok, to check your wheel bearings, lift up your bike and try to move your rim sideways, if able to shake, it means your wheel bearings is able to change.. front wheel bearings, lift up your front wheel.. back, lift your bike's back wheel.
Swing arm bearings - lift up your back wheel and when you push to left and right, instead of your wheel moving, your entire swing arm move instead, that's time to change your swing arm bearing - bear in mind, if ANY vehicle hit you from behind.. and you feel a huge force going thru.. your swing arm bearing is gone...
cone bearing aka fork bearing - turn your handle bar left to right/right to left SLOWLY, you should feel a "lock" on every angle, any angle no lock, means that bearing is gone also.. but no worries. it's ok de and no need to change unless mech suggest MUST change..
*"Lock" doesn't mean it will REALLY lock your handle bar or etc.. it's like when you move your any part of your body, example, wrist.. you can turn all around and you will feel something inside rotating, at any angle that's suddenly TOO smooth or TOO rough, that's when your wrist have problem.. the cone bearing works this way..
Lastly, remember to jack up your front wheel so that you can turn your handbar w/o any fraction on the floor..
*disclaimer, dont't change your cone bearing unless really required, heard that "some" people accident because cannot get use to the new bearings in there.. and your turning and etc will change 'slightly"
- For putting your bike on a rest while you need to do something.. (Do I even need to explain) haha..
- If side stand is bended, check with other KR riders and see whether is it your side stand that's bended or your body frame, if side stand, replace it. if body frame, you need to wield it.
- For opening your valve and it will become "faster" (bigger bike valve is open by "system" as they reach certain speed OR rpm, I'm not sure.
- For KR, our valve is open between RPM 6~8, you will feel a surge of power coming in and your bike "changes sound" as your speed and power become bigger alot.
- If you slow down and bike sound VERY weird from what you hear beginning, most likely your valve is jammed.. Thus you need to rev abit before it become normal.. If it's still the same(weird sound).. Please go and service your valve.. Don't learn the hard way.
Example: myself, I tot my bike will be ok after resting for several hours.. But sound still same.. MAX speed 70km/h, no matter how I wack still 70.. I only run less den 100km and my bike died on me.. seeing onli 7x~8x km.. cannot be petrol... so try all ways.. But failed.. In the end, just decided to open my fuel and check, SHII!! NO PETROL at all!! all dried... pump petrol to max.. ride to one of the shops in UBI.. they closed back my valve but told me need to overhaul and ask me to leave my bike behind.. almost kanna chop.. but my mind turn fast and told them i'll be back tml as it's monday and i need it on sunday night.. lolx.. went to planet and they told me.. valve jammed nia.. and settle with planet.. case closed...
Other etcs, (Simple intro of these)
- Signal lights (most basic) because KR's original signal light not nice.. those one stick den pop out.. MOST of us has already change the signal lights.. *Grey area*
(updated - not legal anymore)
- Grounding, taking all negative power back to your battery thus giving you lesser vibration and etc. Confirm legal as nothing can be seen.
- hazard lights, very few of us have this function as it's only available to big bikes or car. It's a DIY or paid function. grey area, as no switch is supposedly to be install the in first place but this is for safely feature
- Leds, most of us wanted our bike to be very nice nice and want at least some lights to be brighten up our bike. Confirm illegal if you on and run and GOT CAUGHT.
- Sharp tail, sibei sui lah.. (super nice) but you will be a hot pull over for LTA and TP and you have to be small size to squeeze if you going to pillion anyone.. Illegal under the terms of LTA as our bike is supposedly to be 2 seaters. (even 2 seater sharp tail also illegal) *anything not originally is by right illegal...
- Original serial number of your bike can be found under your block on top of your engine, it's on the left side.. will be seenable if you look carefully..
anyway, prices could not be disclose as the price will change over time and I might get the mods to make this stickily. for more details prices list, either ask at KR thread or call up your bike shop and ask.
Lastly, this is a copy and paste from onemotoring website:
http://www.onemotoring.com.sg/publis..._offences.html - LTA's Common Vehicle-Related Offences
http://www.onemotoring.com.sg/publis...ion_guide.html - Modification Guide
Put those issues instead of car into bike, if some stuff that you are asking is not stated, feel free to ask it here. Remember.. some is GREY areas… If you don't understand Grey areas means, white and black mixed lightly is grey, thus it's not a NO but either it is a YES.
Taken from Sparks1 guru.. lolx..
Kawasaki KR150 Recommendations/Maintenance
Spark Plug: NGK B8ES/BR8ES/BR9ES, BR8EIX (Iridium)/Denso IW24 (Iridium)
Spark Plug can last at least 10000km
TT900GP gd for distance, BT39 gd for cornering, TT900 not so lasting as TT900GP.
usually ppl put TT900 90/80 front, 90/80 rear for pick up.
110/70 or 120/80 rear for stability.
BT39 ppl usually put 90/80 front, 90/80 rear for pick up.
110/70 rear for better cornering. use 120/80 corner even more power.
metzeler ppl put 90/80 front, 130/80 rear, gd or not i dunno.
Pilot sporty front 90/80, rear 100/80, dry weather very gd, wet weather when lane splitting abit unstable.
Wears off super fast; I use one month need to change
Proven by phase_one & me.
Still can use other tires for rear like BT090, BT21, BT45, BT14, Sportec M1 or M3, Pirelli, Pilot Sport also can, depending on individual.
must often open valve so that to prevent it to be jam or clotted with carbon, also can determine whether it's functioning.
Gear one to six all can open valve, best is lower gear n drag.
Valve can be open anytime u wan, valve will not spoilt this way, so dun worry.
Standard Tire Pressure
front 210, rear 225.
can + up to 30kpa or - to 10kpa
KR150 is a cheap and good transportation bike.
Can use any 2T, fully syn to be preferred or up to ur budget.
Basic servicing like service carburetor every 6 months n yearly full servicing can keep the bike in gd running condition. Remember to change coolant when doing full servicing.
one whole yr nv service bike also can but if u got spare cash then go for my recommended servicing.
Change spark plug when faulty, spark plug can last at least 10000km.
Change EO at least once a year or when the oil indicator is low.
Use gear oil better still, can last super duper long
Change chain and sprocket at least once a year, can last more than a year if u clean and lube your chain periodically.
Other basic maintenance can be done periodically.
i nv even service anything for first 8 months when i got my bike, but got change EO.
What i have done on my Kawasaki KR150:
- HEL Brake Hose (front and Rear)
- Bubble screen
- Battlax BT39SS Tires (F: 90/80, R: 120/80)
- DID heavy Duty Gold Chain
- Aluminum Chain Guard
- Dynamyx Volt Meter + holder
- Hazard Light
- SP signal light
- Stebel Magnum Horn
- NGK Iridrium Spark Plug
- Grounding Wires
- Stomach Emptied
- Rim stickers
- LED tail light
- Meter LEDs
- Playlife grip
- Radiator n coolant reserve using Engine ICE
- Japan Wheel Bearings
- Tank Pad and Fuel Cap pad
- Swing Arm Spools
- Fuel Consumption: 28.8 km/L
Lastly, If wan to ask me wat I've changed/added on my bike,
- Sprocket tested 14/41 & 15/41 (Currently) & 15/38 (just previously,2 months ago) & 15/39 (just previously,2 days ago) & 15/40 & 15/41
- Bubble screen
- Battlax BT39SS Tires (F: 90/80, R: 110/70) (currently) (last time 90/80 for both)
- DID heavy Duty Gold Chain/Normal Chains/Fake DID chains/Can't remember wat other brands liaoz..
- Aluminum Red/Black/Silver Chain Guard/Original Normal Chain guards (Using Original-more lasting and durable)
- Volt meter (Can't remember wat brand) those small square ones..)
- Volt stabilizer (rev tec) Control intake and output of your electrical flow
- Ignition boaster - Can't remember brand
- Hazard Light
- SP signal light
- NGK Iridrium G-Power Spark Plug (Cheap Spark Plug from MY RM$4(doesn't last me more den 24 hours))
- Grounding Wires (DIY)
- Stomach Emptied (previous owner)
- Rim stickers (previously) Spray entire rim in the end in MY (new reflective rim sticker)
- LED light
- Box fixed with Touring lights and reflective stickers "all over it".
- Speedo Meter - LEDs + Stickers over it.
- All grips same.. tested.. you like it just change it...
- Radiator n coolant reserve using Engine ICE/Maxuim/normal coolant. (updated: use green one is good enough)
- Japan racing Wheel Bearings/MY wheel bearings. Singapore better..
- Fuel Cap pad/stickers/Spray
- Spray Swing arm/ handlebar /fork (+sticker) in Shop / DIY spray Main frame + Chain Guard + Airflow infont. Fixed Hugger before but remove due to some other reasons.
- DIY speakers b4. remove due to under utilize.
- buy alarm n DIY fix.
- fix up HP holder for GPS purpose + HP charger if my bike required to go tour in the future. (upgraded to Ram Mount Holder)
- additional Digital Speedo (up to 300km/h)
- Ciga box (for ciga/lighter)
- ashtray (in case TP next to you n nowhere to throw your ciga)- (updated - change to fuse box instead)
- pen holder (for coupon writing)- (updated, broken and dun bother to change)
- etc (meet up and see) lolx...
- Fuel Consumption: 20.2 km/L
Pics can see a few things.. (credit to our dear tik *previous outlook)
the light will be light up if 2T is low, or you engage in Neutral gear..
battery does play a part in ignite your spark plug so that you can start your bike.. it doesn't require that much electric as compare to 4 stroke- press start..Hey Desmond,
I see you're really keen on helping fellow KR riders and its really inspiring and I'm glad you like helping people.
I have an important question I need an answer to, about my bike, and I really hope you'll be of help!
Well, the KRR is a kickstart bike.. So battery doesn't play a part in starting e bike? Am i right? Lately I have been having problems starting up my bike (needed to push start my bike twice) and I've never had this problem before.. And I realised now that when I turn my ignition on, my N gear light doesn't go on and neither does my horn make a honk sound. I hope nothing's wrong with my rectifer? But my question is, if a kick start bike doesn't require batt to start, why is it tt I'm having problems starting my bike? does does batt play a part?
so, if your battery is not working, you definitely need to change it since it's a require..
if go into further explanation, battery - connected to ignition coil/magnetic coil/rectifier and lastly spark plug.. spark plug is require to make the first "combustion" so that your bike can start.. so you still need electric..
why push start works? because battery no electric and you are using your magnetic coil to "generate" electric so that it can start the spark plug working..valve located right side of the bike, attached to your block, "supposely" covered up with a pcs of rubber but most bike dun have that rubber nowadays. To close it, any tools that fit in that screw turn it TOWARDS u.. if wrong direction is turned.. your valve will never be open or close until dismanted the entire valve system.. (Block might be damage if you twist too hard)Hi desmond, I like to ask you where is the krr 150 valve located? How do I close it manually if I find it stucked?I would suggest you to check with Ah chiong, P***** at Ubi.. Check is free.. he would not ask you to change unless required..Ahh. I see. So its better for me to just bring the bikeI'll list down from the most expensive items..Hi bro. Need some help from u. I've been riding kr since 3 years ago. And all this while my bike always get that
milky engine oil thing. Keep on changing the
coolant pump. Will be ok for few mths and the problem
happen again. Can u help me by listing down what cause
this to happen. Thanks in advance.
1) Engine gasket (Gearbox leakage) --> need overhaul
2) Head gasket (block leakage) --> need top overhaul
3) Change coolant
4) EO cover no rubber, no rubber to tighten it completely --> change EO cover with some other stuff
5) EO's bottom part not seal up completely --> Need to change screw or some "white tape"
That's all I can think of..
to shop and just check all those part. Any idea how much
it will cost for the overhaul?
Just tell him you change your coolant pump alot of times already..