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Thread: DIY Chain Oiler

  1. #1
    Limsteel
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    Default DIY Chain Oiler



    Scott oiler... TOO EX!!! Surfing in the buy and sell... saw this cheaper oiler on sale... one look at it I find that it is priced too high for what its worth...

    So gathering some stuff at home.
    2m air tube (for Fish tank air pump)
    2 air tube connectors (Fish tank air pump accessories)
    1 air regulator (Fish tank air pump accessories)
    1 plastic bottle
    1 cloth hangar
    some cable tie
    Epoxy

    With some tools
    Drill bit, Plier, Scissor, Pen Knife...

    Use drill bit make a hole at the base of the plastic bottle. Plug a tube connector into the hole and seal with epoxy. Then once the epoxy is set... I tie it up under the seat and attached a long air tube.

    Page2 for updated pics
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
    95-97: 88 Suz GSX400R & 88 GSX400FW
    97-01: 95 Suz Bandit400
    01-04: 96 Suz DR650SE
    04-11: 99 Suz SV650S
    05-05: 94 Suz DR200SE
    06-16: 06 Kia Rio 1.4(M) Sedan
    11-12: 02 BMW F650GS
    12-16 01 BMW R1150GS
    When- Burgman Tmax ??

  2. #2
    dominator
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    Originally posted by Limsteel@Sep 23 2005, 08:35 PM
    Scott oiler... TOO EX!!! Surfing in the buy and sell... saw this cheaper oiler on sale... one look at it I find that it is priced too high for what its worth...

    Scoot Oiler?

    I been using for about 2 years.

    Although too ex as mention by you, I am happy that my current chain and both sprockets changed since last year july have no visible sign of wear. Chain tightening to what I remember only done 3 times.
    My mileage? Don't ask me...you may not believe it.
    Remember no bike is the fastest, no place is that far and no road is that tough.
    Mind Over Body

     

     
  3. #3
    Limsteel
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    Guide the air tube down to the swing arm. Cut halfway and installed the air regulator. The rest of the air tube, I push through a straighten section of a hanger. cable tie to the swing arm.

    The Air regulator is to control the oil flow, without it the flow cannot be controlled! it will drip non-stop!

    Will try to install a Y junction so I can lube both sides...

    Page2 for updated pics
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
    95-97: 88 Suz GSX400R & 88 GSX400FW
    97-01: 95 Suz Bandit400
    01-04: 96 Suz DR650SE
    04-11: 99 Suz SV650S
    05-05: 94 Suz DR200SE
    06-16: 06 Kia Rio 1.4(M) Sedan
    11-12: 02 BMW F650GS
    12-16 01 BMW R1150GS
    When- Burgman Tmax ??

  4. #4
    Limsteel
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    Bent the rear section of the air tube toward the sprockets and chain intersection. As the cloth hangar is inside the airtube, it can twisted into any angle.

    Page2 for updated pics
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
    95-97: 88 Suz GSX400R & 88 GSX400FW
    97-01: 95 Suz Bandit400
    01-04: 96 Suz DR650SE
    04-11: 99 Suz SV650S
    05-05: 94 Suz DR200SE
    06-16: 06 Kia Rio 1.4(M) Sedan
    11-12: 02 BMW F650GS
    12-16 01 BMW R1150GS
    When- Burgman Tmax ??

  5. #5
    Limsteel
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    Total cost
    Plastic Bottle ~ FREE, Empty medication bottle
    2m Air tube ~ $0.60
    2 Connector ~ $0.20
    1 Air Regulator ~ $0.30
    Cloth Hangar ~ FREE, grab from home

    Some cable tie ~ From toolbox. Est $2
    Epoxy ~ From tool Box. Est $5

    So total $1!

    Domi: (a bike I nearly bought)
    I know Scott Oiler is but freaking $170... I cannot bring myself to pay for it!
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
    95-97: 88 Suz GSX400R & 88 GSX400FW
    97-01: 95 Suz Bandit400
    01-04: 96 Suz DR650SE
    04-11: 99 Suz SV650S
    05-05: 94 Suz DR200SE
    06-16: 06 Kia Rio 1.4(M) Sedan
    11-12: 02 BMW F650GS
    12-16 01 BMW R1150GS
    When- Burgman Tmax ??

  6. #6
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    Great job dude, looks pretty decent!

    Do update on whether it reli helps anot ya? i mabbe following ur example..haha
    08 Jun 2004 - 30 May 2005 : NSR150SP (FT ****X)
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    25 Jun 2005 - 22 Jul 2006 : GSXR400RN (FK ****A)
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  7. #7
    Limsteel
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    Originally posted by Ferrous@Sep 23 2005, 09:08 PM
    Great job dude, looks pretty decent!

    Do update on whether it reli helps anot ya? i mabbe following ur example..haha
    Give it a try, it is only a $1 to $10 project (plus elbow grease)... if doesn't work throw away also no big deal!
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
    95-97: 88 Suz GSX400R & 88 GSX400FW
    97-01: 95 Suz Bandit400
    01-04: 96 Suz DR650SE
    04-11: 99 Suz SV650S
    05-05: 94 Suz DR200SE
    06-16: 06 Kia Rio 1.4(M) Sedan
    11-12: 02 BMW F650GS
    12-16 01 BMW R1150GS
    When- Burgman Tmax ??

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    how do you control the rate of the oil dripping?

    and just curious, are you a macgyver fan?

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    Limsteel
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    Originally posted by adrianslacker@Sep 23 2005, 09:51 PM
    how do you control the rate of the oil dripping?

    and just curious, are you a macgyver fan?
    Pic2 connection.jpg... can you see a green thingy just above the heel guard. Tighten to slow or stop Drip... Loosen to increase rate of drip. Down side... If you loosen and never tighten it after riding... you will come back to a pool of oil...

    Lucky for us SV dudes we on side stand and no oil will get onto the tire...

    AND NO I am not a macgyver fan, I am from STR (now a ghost forum )
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
    95-97: 88 Suz GSX400R & 88 GSX400FW
    97-01: 95 Suz Bandit400
    01-04: 96 Suz DR650SE
    04-11: 99 Suz SV650S
    05-05: 94 Suz DR200SE
    06-16: 06 Kia Rio 1.4(M) Sedan
    11-12: 02 BMW F650GS
    12-16 01 BMW R1150GS
    When- Burgman Tmax ??

  10. #10
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    COPY from rabbit oiler... chris getting mad...

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    the biggest improvement that can be made now is adding some mechanism which will ONLY drip oil when the bike is moving, so that it becomes an automatic system (right now you need to tighten and loosen manually).

    Scottoiler uses a tube which connects to the airbox in a certain way, if im not wrong. You can try using the same principle.

    Or a simpler way might be to design it in such a way that oil will only drip when the bike is upright, so when you put it on the sidestand the flow of oil automatically stops. You can probably shift the hose or something to an angle to achieve this.

     

     
  12. #12
    Limsteel
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    TMax2:
    Yeap, for $1 I can accomplish what he does for $25... But bear in mind, his system is proven, mine not... that I cannot copy...

    Adrian:
    Steady... Why didnt I think of that!
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
    95-97: 88 Suz GSX400R & 88 GSX400FW
    97-01: 95 Suz Bandit400
    01-04: 96 Suz DR650SE
    04-11: 99 Suz SV650S
    05-05: 94 Suz DR200SE
    06-16: 06 Kia Rio 1.4(M) Sedan
    11-12: 02 BMW F650GS
    12-16 01 BMW R1150GS
    When- Burgman Tmax ??

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    Copy or not..It wasnt copyright in the first place anyway..

    My mech was doing this for a couple of bikes even before chris525 posted his idea online..No offence though..

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    Is the rabbit oiler and the Chua oiler both the same guy, cause both using the same concept?? If I remember correctly Chua came out with his oiler first 2.5 years ago while I'm still using scottoiler.

    Btw I install chain oiler too, using loobman concept, loob both side of the chain, no need regulator or whatsoever, just squeeze oil bottle and ride.

    My Chain oiler
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Originally posted by Limsteel@Sep 24 2005, 12:02 AM
    TMax2:
    Yeap, for $1 I can accomplish what he does for $25... But bear in mind, his system is proven, mine not... that I cannot copy...

    Adrian:
    Steady... Why didnt I think of that!
    I think you spend more than a dollar, how abt the epoxy and bottle this need cost as well. Not forgetting labour and tools invested.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    Limsteel
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    Originally posted by S750WP@Sep 24 2005, 11:11 AM
    I think you spend more than a dollar, how abt the epoxy and bottle this need cost as well. Not forgetting labour and tools invested.
    Hi there 750:
    When you enjoy doing some things, labor cost = $0.
    A tiny bit of Epoxy, some cable tie... tools is laying around in the house, with no immediate econ value... So to me also $0.

    like I stated:
    Give it a try, it is only a $1 to $10 project (plus elbow grease)... if doesn't work throw away also no big deal!
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
    95-97: 88 Suz GSX400R & 88 GSX400FW
    97-01: 95 Suz Bandit400
    01-04: 96 Suz DR650SE
    04-11: 99 Suz SV650S
    05-05: 94 Suz DR200SE
    06-16: 06 Kia Rio 1.4(M) Sedan
    11-12: 02 BMW F650GS
    12-16 01 BMW R1150GS
    When- Burgman Tmax ??

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    Jayz_sg
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    wah so cool.... every1 come out with their own concept....

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    chris 525
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    Originally posted by tweakmax2@Sep 23 2005, 11:44 PM
    COPY from rabbit oiler... chris getting mad...
    Nope I am not mad.

    Remember the humble Apple computer started from a DIY kit back int the 70's

    The DIY oilers that I have seen (as well as this one) also not the same. You just open the valve, then oil flows. If you forget to off the valve then all the oil flows out.

    The loobman you squeeze the bottle, there is a resevoir (not sealed) leading to a double dripper at the back. Because the resevoir not sealed, it is very messy if you squeeze too much. Also this one only availbale mail-order and you got to spend 1-3 hours figuring out the instructions.

    The simple oiler has some lever on the handle bar that can on-off the flow. But that one no loonger available.

    As well as all the parts that make up the rabbit oiler, there is the time to assemble them, and more time to fit them to the bike, all the SMS, all the PM and the to and fro to the hw shops.

    I am working on making the rabbit oiler fully-auto, but it is going to require a battery pack to power it and some trick parts. As a result the price will be more like S$50.
    Current FAZER600-Naked

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    S750WP
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    Originally posted by chris 525@Sep 24 2005, 10:33 PM
    The loobman you squeeze the bottle, there is a resevoir (not sealed) leading to a double dripper at the back. Because the resevoir not sealed, it is very messy if you squeeze too much. Also this one only availbale mail-order and you got to spend 1-3 hours figuring out the instructions.
    The loobman concept which I improvise, doesn't fling as much compare to the drip type because the oil glide on the sprocket. If squueeze too much oil, and the bike is stationary it will drip by the side only, not messy to the bike at all.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


    My Z750 DIY Page
    http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

    04 Z750 Specification
    http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

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    "Caveman Concept"

    Lowest Cost

    Most Manual

    Most DIY



    How to Correctly Lube your Chain!


    Most people (probably 7 out of 10) don’t know how to correctly “lube” their Motorcycle Chain! A chain wears at it’s “Pins”, that holds the inner & outer Side Plates together.

    It’s “Pin” wear that causes your chain to stretch! (wear)

    Most people just spray the chain lube on the back of the sprocket down the middle of the chain. This does your chain very little good!!!! The chain “rollers need very little lubrication.

    The only correct way to get the “lube” to the Pins....is to spray just above the chain at the bottom of the sprocket & let “gravity” do the work. The lube will flow between the side plates to get to the shaft of the Pins.

    Then do the other side the same way. The difference between a improperly lubed chain & one that is “lubed” correctly can mean up to a 35% increase in the life of your chain!

    Remember that a properly lubed non O-Ring Chain with the same Tensile Strength.....will last just as long if “lubed” correctly! Even a X-Ring chain seals have to be lubed occasionally to keep them from drying out & help flush grit off the chain!!!!

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    Originally posted by il4@Sep 25 2005, 11:28 AM
    The only correct way to get the “lube” to the Pins....is to spray just above the chain at the bottom of the sprocket & let “gravity” do the work. The lube will flow between the side plates to get to the shaft of the Pins.

    Then do the other side the same way.
    hm...how do u access the chain frm the other side at the same angle?
    there's the wheel blocking right...?
    =[ Honda CBR150R ]=
    ....=[ R E P S O L ]=
    ....

     

     
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    Originally posted by d0n^@Sep 25 2005, 06:12 PM
    hm...how do u access the chain frm the other side at the same angle?
    there's the wheel blocking right...?
    then go for loobman, vchua, dabbit concept, otherwise do what opposite direction of caveman concept.

    lol

  23. #23
    motofreak
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    Originally posted by il4@Sep 25 2005, 11:28 AM
    "Caveman Concept"

    Lowest Cost

    Most Manual

    Most DIY



    How to Correctly Lube your Chain!


    Most people (probably 7 out of 10) don’t know how to correctly “lube” their Motorcycle Chain! A chain wears at it’s “Pins”, that holds the inner & outer Side Plates together.

    It’s “Pin” wear that causes your chain to stretch! (wear)

    Most people just spray the chain lube on the back of the sprocket down the middle of the chain. This does your chain very little good!!!! The chain “rollers need very little lubrication.

    The only correct way to get the “lube” to the Pins....is to spray just above the chain at the bottom of the sprocket & let “gravity” do the work. The lube will flow between the side plates to get to the shaft of the Pins.

    Then do the other side the same way. The difference between a improperly lubed chain & one that is “lubed” correctly can mean up to a 35% increase in the life of your chain!

    Remember that a properly lubed non O-Ring Chain with the same Tensile Strength.....will last just as long if “lubed” correctly! Even a X-Ring chain seals have to be lubed occasionally to keep them from drying out & help flush grit off the chain!!!!


    Da real bikers way....

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    Originally posted by Limsteel@Sep 24 2005, 12:02 AM
    TMax2:
    Yeap, for $1 I can accomplish what he does for $25... But bear in mind, his system is proven, mine not... that I cannot copy...

    Adrian:
    Steady... Why didnt I think of that!
    sometimes its no about the money, its about how you spend your time. some ppl like only to ride, some ppl like to do up their bike.

    i'm the type who do up my bike.
    this one my scooter


    this one is what I do

    Take a look at my works

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    Originally posted by dominator@Sep 23 2005, 08:42 PM
    Scoot Oiler?

    I been using for about 2 years.

    Although too ex as mention by you, I am happy that my current chain and both sprockets changed since last year july have no visible sign of wear. Chain tightening to what I remember only done 3 times.
    My mileage? Don't ask me...you may not believe it.
    yes i believe you... i'm using scottoiler too... lasted me 75000km plus minus before i got my chain tighten. it not only lubes your chain well, it also keeps it clean. i believe a DIY type wld serve the same purpose if the correct oil is used.

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    i too had diy a oiler similar to the rabbit oiler all the stuff taken from my house didnt spent a cent...


    at less easily for me no need to keep on oiling .



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    spent the whole afternoon , playin ard wiv this DIY oiler..
    its amazing how simple this thing works..

    btw, my flowrate seems quite unstable..
    its either too lilttle or too much..

    so mr.limsteel, do u turn on the valve onli when ur on the move?

    aniway, i was oso toyin ard wiv the idea of tapping the air frm the airbox. but the outlet is v big..
    so, ani ideas?
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    how the oil flow y it self n control the flow
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  29. #29
    Limsteel
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    Originally posted by fooz@Nov 24 2005, 07:59 PM
    spent the whole afternoon , playin ard wiv this DIY oiler..
    its amazing how simple this thing works..

    btw, my flowrate seems quite unstable..
    its either too lilttle or too much..

    so mr.limsteel, do u turn on the valve onli when ur on the move?

    aniway, i was oso toyin ard wiv the idea of tapping the air frm the airbox. but the outlet is v big..
    so, ani ideas?
    It is simple right? Scott oiler will have a hard time if everyone of us DIY our very own oiler.

    Anyway, I just added another Green colour valve, I set my drip rate to about 1 or 2 drops a min (lower even better). very difficult to control. so kenna the G Spot liao don't touch anymore! The other Valve (can be a on/off valve) I put at an easy reach location before riding just open full blast... No worries about too much flow!

    Initial trial, I make a big mess when I set the drip rate too high... Too much oil, all flow out onto the swing arm.
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
    95-97: 88 Suz GSX400R & 88 GSX400FW
    97-01: 95 Suz Bandit400
    01-04: 96 Suz DR650SE
    04-11: 99 Suz SV650S
    05-05: 94 Suz DR200SE
    06-16: 06 Kia Rio 1.4(M) Sedan
    11-12: 02 BMW F650GS
    12-16 01 BMW R1150GS
    When- Burgman Tmax ??

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    hmm... so got 2 valve now? ... interesting...
    maybe tmr will add another one to try..

    g-spot ah.. so shiok ...
    i still tryin to find mine.. =)

    hmm... u noe, the current applicator position is at the bottom of the rear sprocket.. was tinkin of chnagin the position to the chainguard..
    so it can drip on the sprocket as well as the chain... n this way.. it shldnt be messy.., cz it will drip on the sprocket...
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    Limsteel
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    forget to mention that I have attached a small plastic tube (come with WD40, RP7, see pic) to the end of my applicator... So instead of a large drop of oil, the oil drops are smaller... So flow rate can be abit more precise when tuning.

    As for position, I think the best location is:
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
    95-97: 88 Suz GSX400R & 88 GSX400FW
    97-01: 95 Suz Bandit400
    01-04: 96 Suz DR650SE
    04-11: 99 Suz SV650S
    05-05: 94 Suz DR200SE
    06-16: 06 Kia Rio 1.4(M) Sedan
    11-12: 02 BMW F650GS
    12-16 01 BMW R1150GS
    When- Burgman Tmax ??

     

     
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    Originally posted by fooz@Nov 24 2005, 10:22 PM
    hmm... so got 2 valve now? ... interesting...
    maybe tmr will add another one to try..

    g-spot ah.. so shiok ...
    i still tryin to find mine.. =)

    hmm... u noe, the current applicator position is at the bottom of the rear sprocket.. was tinkin of chnagin the position to the chainguard..
    so it can drip on the sprocket as well as the chain... n this way.. it shldnt be messy.., cz it will drip on the sprocket...
    u need to remove the chain guard to drip to sprocket

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    Good effort to make up an effective, cheap and simple device. Don't be worried about copyright, all those commercially available oilers are copies themselves. Therefore they do not have any recourse to copyright protection.

    If you get a chance take a look at some vintage bikes or cars. They were often fitted at the factory with 'lubrication systems'. Mercedes had a system on their cars in the 1910's and so did maost other manufacturers. Motorcycle brands such as Squirrel, Mercury, Scott, etc all had some oiling system available, including the drive chains. Some bikes ran two chains, a primary and a secondary or final chain.

    If you want to set up an 'Auto shut off' try using the existing system on your bike. The fuel valve on most tanks is vacumm operated. Get a second valve, fit to your system, run a line to the existing vacumm line to the fuel tap. Just plumb it in via a T piece connector. I'm using one system on a Gixxer at the moment, works well.

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    Limsteel
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    hmm... I don't know how S.oiler do it but I am afraid the vacuum suck oil into air box or what even you connect too... I let gravity do it's job...

    Else, I am thinking of using a mini solenoid hydraulic valve (normally closed) connect to switch. when you switch on your bike, current pass thru soleniod and actuate the valve open... really simple circuit... But cost of Soleniod valve $10? 100? I don't know... So manually operated valve CHEAPO is best option

    Updates on pics! The additional underseat regulator... solve the problem of unequal flowrate everytime you turn it ON! So just find the best flowrate (1 - 2 drops a min, up to you). The flowrate will remain costant everytime you turn it ON!
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
    95-97: 88 Suz GSX400R & 88 GSX400FW
    97-01: 95 Suz Bandit400
    01-04: 96 Suz DR650SE
    04-11: 99 Suz SV650S
    05-05: 94 Suz DR200SE
    06-16: 06 Kia Rio 1.4(M) Sedan
    11-12: 02 BMW F650GS
    12-16 01 BMW R1150GS
    When- Burgman Tmax ??

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    Instead of a regulator, I swap mine for a steel on/off valve $1 from Fishy shop! I love keeping fishes!
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
    95-97: 88 Suz GSX400R & 88 GSX400FW
    97-01: 95 Suz Bandit400
    01-04: 96 Suz DR650SE
    04-11: 99 Suz SV650S
    05-05: 94 Suz DR200SE
    06-16: 06 Kia Rio 1.4(M) Sedan
    11-12: 02 BMW F650GS
    12-16 01 BMW R1150GS
    When- Burgman Tmax ??

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    Attached additional RP7 tube to the orginal big hole applicator... Smaller hole makes flow seems more constant... pycho feeling maybe... I donno...

    After weeks of trial and error... finally I can hand off the oiler liao!
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
    95-97: 88 Suz GSX400R & 88 GSX400FW
    97-01: 95 Suz Bandit400
    01-04: 96 Suz DR650SE
    04-11: 99 Suz SV650S
    05-05: 94 Suz DR200SE
    06-16: 06 Kia Rio 1.4(M) Sedan
    11-12: 02 BMW F650GS
    12-16 01 BMW R1150GS
    When- Burgman Tmax ??

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    v gd improvements!

    yea, i saw the metal valve at the fish shop, was contemptin to get it cz look so nice.. but the shop i went was sellin at 2bux.. so i decided agnst it n gt the plastic one... 50cents.. (cheapo me)

    btw, how do u connect the small tube applicator to the air tube?


    still tryin to find the g-spot .. darn..
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  38. #38
    Limsteel
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    Toa Payoh fish shop selling $1 for the valve. 10cents for the air tube connector.
    As for connecting the RP7 tube to the applcator end. Use an air tube connector, using super glue attach the RP7 tube (small section will do, too long will be unstable during riding). Once cured, attached it to the end. I super glue them together, as I lost a few of these while riding.

    Finding the correct flowrate need time. once you adjusted a setting, you have to wait for the flowrate to stablised. I waited like 2 to 5min. then I fine tune again waiting a few min each time I adjust the flow.
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
    95-97: 88 Suz GSX400R & 88 GSX400FW
    97-01: 95 Suz Bandit400
    01-04: 96 Suz DR650SE
    04-11: 99 Suz SV650S
    05-05: 94 Suz DR200SE
    06-16: 06 Kia Rio 1.4(M) Sedan
    11-12: 02 BMW F650GS
    12-16 01 BMW R1150GS
    When- Burgman Tmax ??

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    be careful while tightenin the knob of the air contrl valve.
    i over tighten, n the whole thing crack.
    changed to the metal valve. looks nicer, n def easier to contrl the flowrate as well !

    anway, i added another dripper, tto drip frm the top of the chain guard.
    abit more ley chey now, cz i got to turn on 2 valve instd of 1.. but heck, it works .. so m happy...

    all it needs now is a gd wash, to remove the oily handprints..

    so mr. limsteel, animore fun things to DIY? heh...
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    hi limsteel, maybe u wanna cut a hole at the bottle cap and add a tube as a breather (the tube is to prevent water from goin in)..this will help the oil to flow more constant..i jus tried it out with and without the breather..its better to add it..

    2 roads diverged into a wood, and I-I took the road less traveled and that makes all the difference!


  41. #41
    Limsteel
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    Initially I wanted to install a breather couple with a check valve (available at fish shop for $3) it will allow air to flow in and restrict the oil from flowing out incase it topples... but the bottle cap already damaged, it cannot be tighten. So with breather or without breather don't matter.

    It is a good idea for those whose container is air tight.
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
    95-97: 88 Suz GSX400R & 88 GSX400FW
    97-01: 95 Suz Bandit400
    01-04: 96 Suz DR650SE
    04-11: 99 Suz SV650S
    05-05: 94 Suz DR200SE
    06-16: 06 Kia Rio 1.4(M) Sedan
    11-12: 02 BMW F650GS
    12-16 01 BMW R1150GS
    When- Burgman Tmax ??

     

     
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    Originally posted by Limsteel@Nov 25 2005, 10:12 PM
    hmm... I don't know how S.oiler do it but I am afraid the vacuum suck oil into air box or what even you connect too... I let gravity do it's job...

    Else, I am thinking of using a mini solenoid hydraulic valve (normally closed) connect to switch. when you switch on your bike, current pass thru soleniod and actuate the valve open... really simple circuit... But cost of Soleniod valve $10? 100? I don't know... So manually operated valve CHEAPO is best option

    Updates on pics! The additional underseat regulator... solve the problem of unequal flowrate everytime you turn it ON! So just find the best flowrate (1 - 2 drops a min, up to you). The flowrate will remain costant everytime you turn it ON!
    The vacuum does not suck up oil, as there is no connection to the delivery side. The vacuum line runs from fuel tank valve to oiler and ends there. It works exactly same way as the vacuum line to your fuel valve, which does not suck up fuel.

    I agree that simple is best, less to go wrong. BTW if you, or anyone else, should happen to come up with any devices or items that you think may be useful, then let me know. Our workshop develops prototypes for all sorts of industries. So we are used to dealing with fresh/unusual ideas.

  43. #43
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    Thanks for enlightening, I understand now... I can use pneumatic normally closed valve.. when only there is an air pressure diff the valve will open... Idea... but how much this valve will cost and how big is it?

    If I can go down to scrape yard maybe can find those scrape bike fuel tank valve to replace the replace my existing ON/Off switch then it will be beautiful!

    IF I CAN GO LAH!
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
    95-97: 88 Suz GSX400R & 88 GSX400FW
    97-01: 95 Suz Bandit400
    01-04: 96 Suz DR650SE
    04-11: 99 Suz SV650S
    05-05: 94 Suz DR200SE
    06-16: 06 Kia Rio 1.4(M) Sedan
    11-12: 02 BMW F650GS
    12-16 01 BMW R1150GS
    When- Burgman Tmax ??

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    Originally posted by Limsteel@Dec 6 2005, 11:49 AM
    Thanks for enlightening, I understand now... I can use pneumatic normally closed valve.. when only there is an air pressure diff the valve will open... Idea... but how much this valve will cost and how big is it?

    If I can go down to scrape yard maybe can find those scrape bike fuel tank valve to replace the replace my existing ON/Off switch then it will be beautiful!

    IF I CAN GO LAH!
    Yep thats what I'm using, a fuel valve from some moped thing, from memory its from a Honda 110 fuel tank that was scrap metal. Its not big at all, about 3cm wide by 2cm deep, already fitted with O-ring and I reused the bolts that came off the tank.

    I just drilled it into the bottom of my oil reservoir and drilled and tapped two bolt holes for it, even used the filter that came with it. Not difficult to make or fit.Cost me RM2, so cheap, and I do use the air valve from a fish tank downline. Its a simple two way metal valve, costing RM3, thats just to make sure.

    I use 150w Gear Oil, I have 60 litres of the stuff in a drum that I use for other machinery. Works out very cheap and I get long time between refills.

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    v interesting.
    so this thing works when u switch on ur bike..

    happen to have any pics? nt sure hw a fuel valve looks like.

    btw, y r all ur $$ in RM$?
    ur factory in msia?
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    Originally posted by fooz@Dec 7 2005, 02:14 AM
    v interesting.
    so this thing works when u switch on ur bike..

    happen to have any pics? nt sure hw a fuel valve looks like.

    btw, y r all ur $$ in RM$?
    ur factory in msia?
    When the engine starts a vacuum opens the fuel valve from the petrol tank as well as the valve from my chain oil tank. Its the same as any fuel tank switch, the one you turn to 'Reserve' when you start running out of fuel.

    I will try and get around to taking some pics of the thing next time I have it apart, and will post here.

    Yes I do have a workshop here in Malaysia, which is why the MR$. We custom make items for surface, sea and air transportation needs. We also do made to order for racing use, anything that uses an engine/s for power. Most of our work is developing componentry for CAM using a variety of software and some 'reverse engineering'.

    We are in the process of setting up a micro-shop in Sg.

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    Cheap and good idea.
    History n Present ride!
    Nov '2000 till Dec '2000 - (Blue) Aprilia RS 125cc (FN3401x) 1 Mth
    Dec '2000 till Oct '2005- Yamaha RXZ Delux 135cc (FQ4410M) 4 Years 11Mths
    Feb '2004 till Dec '2009 - (Blue) Honda Wave-S 125cc (FX7440U) 5 Years 10Mths
    Dec '2009 till Sept '2012 - Yamaha FZ150i [FBExxxxx] 2 Years 9Mths
    Sept 2012 till present - Yamaha LC135 RX [FBFxxxxx]

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    MY DIY oiler!!!!!

    oiler bottle at my rear seat


    the setup, knob, better version den others, turn in n out to control flow rate of lubrication oil. very nice control as well


    view from the back




    nipper driper x 2


    drilled 2 holes on my front chain guard to hold the 2 dripers onto chain at correct places.


    this is how i tried to hide the tube n oiler bottle
    No more regrets.

  49. #49
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    total cost:

    Knobs x 2 = $2 ($1 each)
    Dripers x 2 = $1 ($0.50 each)
    tube x 4 metres = $2 ($0.50 each metre, but i used 1 metre only)
    oiler bottle x 1 = $0.80

    so total amount of money needed is only $4.30 + ur lubrication oil + drill + time

    oh ya, b4 doing the oiler, have to clean chain first.

    I used 300ml of diesel, clean the dirt let it settle for 5 mins, den clean off for an hour or so..den do oiler.

    oiler takes abt 20 mins to complete. however, while tinking n trial n error, i used 40mins.
    No more regrets.

  50. #50
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    its made of cheap plasctic material (meant to control air flow in a fish tank), open n close it frequently, the knob wears off and oil starts dripping. anyone of u here experienced such thing?

    wat shld i do? any suggestions?

    im considering this valve.


    any suggestions?
    No more regrets.

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