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Thread: DIY Chain Oiler

  1. #101
    Limsteel
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    Originally posted by P-Plate TZR@Feb 20 2006, 09:50 PM
    ok.. thankx.. ani pic 2 show mi the valve n adjuster??
    tink i bought the wrong one...
    Page2... Number six post... I took pics (not to clear, HP cam lah) of the container + first Valve... Then the Metal On/Off switch and finally the WD-40 applicator
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  2. #102
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    hmm ani idea wher i can juz buy the wd 40 tube seperateli????








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  3. #103
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    Originally posted by Limsteel@Feb 19 2006, 04:22 PM
    if you get smaller tube, then everything else have to be smaller to. You will have more problem finding these stuff...

    Fish stuff is readily available at Fish Shop and cost really low... Valves, connector, cost 10c, 50c... smaller ones will cost?
    Where is the address for the fish shop in Toa Pa Yoh you are refering, I'm trying to get the metal on/off valve.

    The fish shop at my place sell the metal on/off valve as well, however its not the one way type which I am looking for, its 2 or 3 way valve type.


    Need the one way type to connect to my oil container and to the delivery tube.
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  4. #104
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    Actually most fish shop sells them... there are 1in-1out, 1in-2/3/4out
    Toa Payoh Fish Shop

    you going to put two, is there a regulator to restrict flow, if not... you will have very oily chain, tyre, brake disc. I over do it once and found oil on my rear tyre and brake disc... My rear brakes is as good as gone!

    So do remember to regulate the flow...
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  5. #105
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    Originally posted by P-Plate TZR@Feb 22 2006, 12:33 AM
    hmm ani idea wher i can juz buy the wd 40 tube seperateli????
    I'm not sure where you can get the tube even if can buy one but i got an idea for a cheap replacement. I realised you could used the center tube section of those cotton bubs used for cleaning your ears. Just trim off the cotton on both ends and you get your tube.

  6. #106
    Limsteel
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    Steady! Real good idea! Being trying to find replacement for this item for some time liao!
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
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    Originally posted by Limsteel@Feb 25 2006, 02:45 PM
    Actually most fish shop sells them... there are 1in-1out, 1in-2/3/4out
    Toa Payoh Fish Shop

    you going to put two, is there a regulator to restrict flow, if not... you will have very oily chain, tyre, brake disc. I over do it once and found oil on my rear tyre and brake disc... My rear brakes is as good as gone!

    So do remember to regulate the flow...
    I have a pneumatic regulator, very precise control.

    I already remove the on/off switch at the handle bar, because the control is not 100%, found residue oil on the delivery tube still continue to drip very slowly when park overnight. The oil flow create a negative pressure at the delivery tube continue to draw oil from the oil bottle even the on/off valve is off.

    So I'm going to get this on/off valve and place directly at the delivery side to on/off the oil flow, however remote control on/off will not be possible.

    Set up will be

    Oil bottle => on/off valve => regulator => applicator
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  8. #108
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    limsteel... may i have a look at yr setup?

  9. #109
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    page two, number 6 post onwards:

    First a botte with a hole drill at bottom, attached with a regulator. Then an air-tube links to the front foot rest. Attached an ON/OFF valve, it is then another air tube (with cloth hangar inside for strength) secure by cable tied to the swing arm. Finally at the end a WD40 tube take the role of applicator to drop the oil at the desire spot...
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    Originally posted by Limsteel@Feb 20 2006, 12:53 AM
    It would be better to have a breather hole, if your container is air tight, else the oil won't flow... Again goto the fish shop and get a checkValve (anti reverse flow). Drill a hole on top and Silicon (epoxy) the chekvalve to the hole.

    The Check valve will allow air to go in and if incase the container fall over, the check valve will stop the oil from flowing out...

    I have 2 valve, one regulator Hidden (oil flow control) and the other On/Off ball valve, both are Aquarium stuff...
    so bro the valves u toking abt is the green one and the ball valve is the metal one u refering to in page 2?

    sorry abit slow on this as i m not a technical person..

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    so in layman terms is it some thing like in the pic i drew? but i do not noe how to do one thing :


    another thing is... where do i add the hanger metal piece?

     

     
  12. #112
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    The on/off valve at the breather will not be much help... Air can expand during hot weather force oil to drip out... place along the oil line is better... Also accessible.

    I attached my Switch between the lowest part of the faring and Ankle guard... Easy access even when I am riding.
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    Originally posted by Limsteel@Mar 1 2006, 11:18 AM
    The on/off valve at the breather will not be much help... Air can expand during hot weather force oil to drip out... place along the oil line is better... Also accessible.

    I attached my Switch between the lowest part of the faring and Ankle guard... Easy access even when I am riding.
    the valve at the breather in yr diagram is wad type of valve? is it like when u switch to 'on' it will open a air passage thn when closed it the valve hole will close as well? sorry i do not noe the technical terms .

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    Go to fish shop ask for a check valve (plastic about $3-5, metal about ~$10) this valve allow flow in 1 direction.

    When attached to the bottle, it should allow air to flow in (normal operation) but keep oil/air from flowing out (when the bottle falls over)...
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    i did it!!!
    thanks limsteel!!!!
    ok now for the testing... will get some oil after work and switch everything off to see if it leaks... i did try with water just now... no leaks...

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    Originally posted by Limsteel@Mar 1 2006, 11:18 AM
    The on/off valve at the breather will not be much help... Air can expand during hot weather force oil to drip out... place along the oil line is better... Also accessible.

    I attached my Switch between the lowest part of the faring and Ankle guard... Easy access even when I am riding.
    bro limsteel, can i check wif u wat bottle u usin??








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  17. #117
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    Medicine bottle. Found it at my sister place... like for her calcium pills...

    Any bottle will do, I found this one fit nicely into my underseat compartment. Seems and feels like those container usually neighbourhood Docter used to store their medicine...
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    Originally posted by Limsteel@Mar 1 2006, 11:37 PM
    Medicine bottle. Found it at my sister place... like for her calcium pills...

    Any bottle will do, I found this one fit nicely into my underseat compartment. Seems and feels like those container usually neighbourhood Docter used to store their medicine...
    hey i oso using medicine bott... 240ml de... hehehe

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    Hi all, I'm not sure if this point has been brought up or consider b4

    but i see that most oilers have only one outlet tube from the oiler that flows onto the chain, and this is usually at the 'outer' pins, there is almost no oil flow to the 'inner' pins that is hard to access due to the rim and pipe.

    *refer to pg 1 of this thread and look at the post by il4 regarding caveman concept*

    wouldn't this cause uneven wear due to uneven lubrication?
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    that's why some spend $$$ to get double oiler... I already made double oiler, but now need to think of a way to mount so that it can work effectively...
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    I been running dual oiler since I built my chain oiler.
    Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750


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  22. #122
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    Originally posted by Al-demon@Mar 2 2006, 10:16 AM
    Hi all, I'm not sure if this point has been brought up or consider b4

    but i see that most oilers have only one outlet tube from the oiler that flows onto the chain, and this is usually at the 'outer' pins, there is almost no oil flow to the 'inner' pins that is hard to access due to the rim and pipe.

    *refer to pg 1 of this thread and look at the post by il4 regarding caveman concept*

    wouldn't this cause uneven wear due to uneven lubrication?
    our s4 sprocket has a so-called sprocket "guard" on the outside,which will inhibit the presence of an applicator. but i did notice on those s4 wiv scotoiler is that the "guard" was sawn off by the mech, so that the applicator can be used.

    wat i did prev was to drip directly ON the chain jz b4 the chain n the sprocket teeth comes into contact. but i realise ( n as some forumers pointed) will fling everywhr.
    so wat i did was to re-route it to the inside of the sprocket n drip ON the sprocket itself. n let the centrifugal force do the work when its spinning. still have abit of fling, but very very much less. quite satisfied w it.

    yeap, dual applicator is the way to go.
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    i seem to have problems with my oiler leh... the oil does not seem to flow properly leh... can advice ?

  24. #124
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    I can't see your actual setup and condition... don't know what to advise...

    but here are 2 problems I encounter during my initial startup...

    In order for the flow to start, I had to suck on the tube to start flow. hehe The tube was clean intially... can't base on pure gravity to start flow

    Air bubbles along the oil lines, try to get rid of all the air bubbles. open the reglator max and let the oil flow out (at the same time push the air bubbles out)
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    Hi guys,

    What kind of oil do you all use for the oiler?

    I am doing a simple one for now to prevent damage to my chain and will be doing a more complex and auto one later.

    Will post when i am done...


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    Originally posted by bigwhizkid3@Mar 6 2006, 01:44 AM
    Hi guys,

    What kind of oil do you all use for the oiler?

    I am doing a simple one for now to prevent damage to my chain and will be doing a more complex and auto one later.

    Will post when i am done...

    Left over engine oil for bike and car.
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    Originally posted by Limsteel@Mar 5 2006, 10:25 AM
    I can't see your actual setup and condition... don't know what to advise...

    but here are 2 problems I encounter during my initial startup...

    In order for the flow to start, I had to suck on the tube to start flow. hehe The tube was clean intially... can't base on pure gravity to start flow

    Air bubbles along the oil lines, try to get rid of all the air bubbles. open the reglator max and let the oil flow out (at the same time push the air bubbles out)
    hi limsteel... so i gotta suck the air till all the bubbles in the tube got no air bubbles is it?

  28. #128
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    First open the regulator to max flow... then Lowering the pressure at the end of the tube will initiate the flow. Please don't suck until you start drinking engine oil

    Once the flow starts, use another container to collect the oil. the high flowraate will push all the small bubbles along the tube out.

    Once all the bubble is out, you shouold have a smoother flow of oil.
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    got it... will get it done thn update... btw how do you stop little leaks from the main resevior?

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    Fixed my first version of DIY oiler two days ago but took it off before i go to use it.

    Firstly there is no place for my to mount the bottle on the outside. And inside the bike i had not explore yet, but putting it inside will prove difficult to oil. Secondly the metal valve i got will leak when it is closed.

    So back to the drawing board.



    BTW i used some $5/litre trans oil and they are really thick and oily....


  31. #131
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    Slight leak cannot be avoided... These valve are low precision valve not 100% leak prove... What you expect from 50c valve

    Unless the leak is really too high causing a puddle of oil on the floor then I think you got a problem.

    as long as there is a gap (no matter how small) oil will get through. So don't bother plugging all the holes (it's too late anyway, if you see oil stain) just clean up often (unless the oil leak is too messy... time to change bottle.)
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  32. #132
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    I got those valve for $1.00 each...
    I am thinking of one solution that is valve less and will only activate when the engine is on and side stand and main stand both off. So if warm up bike then it wont leak as well...


  33. #133
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    hey i tried sms christ about the chain oiler ... no respond .... i really need a chain oiler coz difficult to lube my chain ar ... no main stand .... if diy myself ar s*it ... i'm a total idiot .....
    Past to present rides

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  34. #134
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    Originally posted by bigwhizkid3@Mar 10 2006, 11:24 AM
    Fixed my first version of DIY oiler two days ago but took it off before i go to use it.

    Firstly there is no place for my to mount the bottle on the outside. And inside the bike i had not explore yet, but putting it inside will prove difficult to oil. Secondly the metal valve i got will leak when it is closed.

    So back to the drawing board.



    BTW i used some $5/litre trans oil and they are really thick and oily....

    hey bro... i oso used the metal valve and leaking too i went back and bought a black and orange valve... leaking stopped... hope this helps... cheers

  35. #135
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    limsteel... thanks once again... the bubbles in the tube was the cause... coz when i got rid of the bubbles... everything was ok again.... but now my bott is leaking... i htink its due to the thin material ... anyone using better botts?? can intro ? thanks limsteel and everyone in this few pages which contributed to my success in the diy oiler!!

  36. #136
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    Originally posted by BaMBiNo@Mar 12 2006, 03:05 PM
    hey bro... i oso used the metal valve and leaking too i went back and bought a black and orange valve... leaking stopped... hope this helps... cheers
    is it a plastic valve or metal one?

  37. #137
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    the one i am using now is plastic... no leaks! hahaha... if u wanna get u go to the shop beside rainbow (corner one) u go in ask for plastic valve orange/black colour... whole casing is black but the part where u turn is orange... cheers... if u afraid cant find thn drop me a pm... gimme yr no... and i willing bring to the shop !

    cheers

  38. #138
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    Originally posted by BaMBiNo@Mar 20 2006, 03:58 AM
    the one i am using now is plastic... no leaks! hahaha... if u wanna get u go to the shop beside rainbow (corner one) u go in ask for plastic valve orange/black colour... whole casing is black but the part where u turn is orange... cheers... if u afraid cant find thn drop me a pm... gimme yr no... and i willing bring to the shop !

    cheers
    Thanks.

    I think i know which shop you talking about.


  39. #139
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    Can anybody help me diy a oiler? Pm me price n info. Thanks alot.
    Regards,

    Crazy

  40. #140
    Limsteel
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    Dude, very simple to do... look at the material and pics guys here uploaded... it fun and easy to do!

    Drop by a fish shop and get some tubes (2m long, should be more than enough), connectors (plastic 1 to 1 connectors), valves ( plastic regulator and a metal on/off valve), small platics applicator (WD40 tube or a cotton bud plastic handle) and a tube of Super glue!

    As they mentioned, about unbalance lubing. all I can say is 1 sided lube is better then no lube!
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
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  41. #141
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    Been awhile since anyone update on this thread....

    So anyone invented the auto on/off oiler yet?

     

     
  42. #142
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    I got PMs from some saying that the setup is inconsistant. I myself got the same problem. So I adjusted the flow till it is virtually ZERO flow during parking. How I know that the oil is flowing? I still see oil stain on my swing arm.

    During riding due to vibration and other forces (wind) oil will flow onto the my rear sprocks. so far so good.

    Auto-off can be done, if you buy a fuel valve. like those used on Bandit400. connect the valve between the oil lines and then another to the carb. it should work.
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
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    240ml medicine bottles vaccum?
    my reservoir now is using a rear brake reservoir so it is not vaccum oso or the oil wun flow.
    i have been thinking to mod it into something like scott oil, tapping the vaccum pipe from the carbs there but i cant find a big reservoir to contain the oil.... what i have in hand now only a 50ml vaccum bottle.
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  44. #144
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    recently i juz install a diy oiler wif 2 point of lub..
    but i find out that if i turn off the oiler while travelling, the oil will drip on the chain from the oil that is present in the tube..
    creating a air gap from the tip end to my Y- connector..
    this result in no dripping of oil when i turn on the oiler the next time..
    is it that we hav to turn on it everytime when we travel??
    cos i was thinking of turning on the oiler onli when i find the chain is dry..
    thanks..

    2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)
    2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK
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  45. #145
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    The way I modified mine last time is get it to slowly drip while I'm on the move (ala Scottoiler) so that this problem doesn't happen.

    So what I did was to install another switch to control 'On' and 'Off', and left the original screw to control the amount of oil flowing out. I then set this amount to drip very slowly through trial and error. Hope this helps!

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  46. #146
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    Originally posted by Aalex82@Oct 5 2006, 02:51 PM
    recently i juz install a diy oiler wif 2 point of lub..
    but i find out that if i turn off the oiler while travelling, the oil will drip on the chain from the oil that is present in the tube..
    creating a air gap from the tip end to my Y- connector..
    this result in no dripping of oil when i turn on the oiler the next time..
    is it that we hav to turn on it everytime when we travel??
    cos i was thinking of turning on the oiler onli when i find the chain is dry..
    thanks..
    Don't think you can do much, as oil flows out, air will replace the space. Unless you can use a applicator tube that has a very small internal diameter. This way the small inner dameter will not allow air and oil to exchange places. thus oil will remain filled in your Y connector.

    But are you already using the WD40 tube as the applicator? if yes, what else can we used that has an even smaller inner diameter? or use thicker oil, mix abit of STP smoke fix or something like that is should thinken the oil and flow will be further slow down, same will happen during riding.

    Currently. I am using an applicator with a much bigger inner diameter and encounter dripping even when I off the on/off valve.
    91-92: 84 Yam LC125
    95-97: 88 Suz GSX400R & 88 GSX400FW
    97-01: 95 Suz Bandit400
    01-04: 96 Suz DR650SE
    04-11: 99 Suz SV650S
    05-05: 94 Suz DR200SE
    06-16: 06 Kia Rio 1.4(M) Sedan
    11-12: 02 BMW F650GS
    12-16 01 BMW R1150GS
    When- Burgman Tmax ??

  47. #147
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    Originally posted by william_liu@Oct 5 2006, 04:13 PM
    The way I modified mine last time is get it to slowly drip while I'm on the move (ala Scottoiler) so that this problem doesn't happen.

    So what I did was to install another switch to control 'On' and 'Off', and left the original screw to control the amount of oil flowing out. I then set this amount to drip very slowly through trial and error. Hope this helps!

    i do the same way as yrs..
    but the problem lies wif the tube end..
    i oso use those WD40 tube..
    maybe i use too thin of the engine oil..
    or maybe mkt will sell those tip end wif valve..
    if the on/off valve is very very near the tip, the air gap will not be so signifince..

    2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)
    2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK
    2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK
    2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)
    2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

  48. #148
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    For those who dunno where exactly to lubricate (i.e the pins ) can refer to here Lubricating Motorcycle Chains

    A good readup abt chain maintainence

  49. #149
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    Originally posted by velo@Oct 24 2006, 12:42 PM
    For those who dunno where exactly to lubricate (i.e the pins ) can refer to here Lubricating Motorcycle Chains

    A good readup abt chain maintainence
    check around....

    on average how often we need to oil the chain if we fix on the oiler gadget?

    can use those EO that is already been used for the engine, after drain off and use it to oil the chain? or must use new EO?

  50. #150
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    I use left over engine oil from ma oil change and used engine oil . I oiled it once everyweek and more on raining season . But dont over-oil e change when ur oiling cause more doesnt means good . Juz give it a 2 -3 roound if ur bike has a main stand on e inner pins , outer and center . Its best to oil them after u rode ur bike when e chain is hot and kinda expand so ur oil or lube reach everywhere ...
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